|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 65
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 65 |
Posted another log entry on BillyBob's rebuilding. To those interested, this one involves more frame refinishing work including the rear axle, replacing a spring shackle and bushings, rear frame, front splash apron and bumper brackets, and rear axle bumper replacements. It starts here: Frame Job: The beat goes on
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 18
Grease Monkey
|
Grease Monkey
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 18 |
Nicely done site!!! Love the details you include!!
Hey,I got one of those blast cabinets. I used that foam tape on all mating surfaces that bolted together and added more locks to the lid.Sealed it up tight. Also drilled a hole in the side,added a fitting for the suction hose to attach to,inside and out. Now i can attach the hose from my siphon feed blaster to it and not run out as often.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 421
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 421 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,906 Likes: 8
Former ChatMaster ChatMaster - 5,000
|
Former ChatMaster ChatMaster - 5,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,906 Likes: 8 |
Larry, I tip my hat to you... your site is great! Not only is it interesting to read, but I found it to be very informative.... although, I've got to admit that I've already learned some of the lessons that you learned.... and naturally, learned them the same way, the hard way!! There is nothing quite like otjt.
Bill Barker Previous VCCA CHAT Administrator (VCCA Member: 9802)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 176
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 176 |
Larry, good work on the truck and the site. It's been awhile since I talked to you. I have some advice for you on the blasting. Make sure your air compressor is away from the blasting area. Otherwise your blaster will last about 1 month before it is ruined. Also, are you using a small volume tank on your compressor? It should take you about 15 minutes to do a part that small instead of 4 hours. Also I wouldn't blast on a tarp. Try this instead. Make a frame out of PVC pipe and drape it with tarps or plastic film. This will make the sand fall on the ground instead of flying out into the yard. When you are finished blasting just broom it into a pile and scoop it up. Run it through a strainer and put it back into the sandblaster. You will find used sand works better. I can make a 100 pound bag of sand last more than a couple weeks doing this. Here is another tip for you. Right now your bracket is rough and it takes alot of primer to smooth it out again. If you get a wire brush cup on your grinder it will smooth the metel back out and all you do is paint it and your done. The metal finish comes out looking like it did originally. I sand blast and paint antique tractors and farm implements and I've learned alot of tricks. Also pressure wash any dirt and grime away before blasting. Sand blasting is to remove old rust and paint not dirt and oil. Prep the metal as soon as possible cause it will rust overnight on you. Try not to touch the metal with your hands. The sweat and moisture will start the rusting process right there even if you can't see it. If you touch it and then prime it everywhere you touched it will more than likely rust under the primer. If you can bead blast your parts go that route instead of sandblasting. It's cleaner, does a better job and safer to the metal. Hope this helps.
VCCA#:45524 1946 3100 Pickup
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 74
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 74 |
A great job on your site. Youve got a lot of usefull links.Ron
|
|
|
|
|
|