VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Trucks and Vans 1951 Chevy flatbed dualley need information

Hi

I just purchased a 1951 chevy flatbed (with dumping bed) dualley. I need to find out what tonage this truck is. The differential is a 10 bolt and measures 1'2" from outside of the seal to the outside of the seal.

I need to purchase a gasket (i can use per-ma-gasket in but this is a last resort) I may need new guts of the differential, depending on how much these gears whine.

Any ideas

Bill T

Lets start off the I.D with the vin # located on the driver side door jamb. Is it 8 lug or 5 or 10 lug??

Hi Bill. One quick suggestion. Give your Vin code and engine block number to Biggreen48. He is the man on 48-53 trucks.

Thanks for your input, sorry it took so long to get back with you.

There is a plate on the inside door jam on the drivers side. It reads 5uk 1 or l, there are so more letter or numbers but I can't make them out.
The wheels are a 10 lug.

Today I put the differential back together Using per-ma gasket. So I am closer to getting the truck running.

I have some questions about the electrical system.
I beleive that this is a 6 volt system. I bought a 12 to 6 volt reducers to insert b/w the battery and the coil.

But will a six volt generator charge a 12 volt battery?

My short term goal is to get the truck runnign, but my long term goal is to restore it. What are ya's thought on changing this system from a 6 volt to a 12 volt or is it best to restore this truck as a 6 volt system?

If I do change this system to a 12 volt. obviously I would need to buy a 12 volt alternator and regulator. But do I also need to change out every light bulb and other electric accessories to 12 as well?

I am new at attempting to restore old trucks so any information you can give me would be very helpful.

Thanks

Bill

If you want to convert to 12 volt but keep it original looking try this:
1.Disconnect and remove the 6-volt battery. If you discard it, make sure you do so properly. Used Lead acid batteries are hazardous waste, so please dispose of them properly -- it's the law.
2.Remove your 6-volt generator.
3.Replace with a 12-volt generator. 4.Remove the 6-volt voltage regulator and replace it with a 12-volt one.
OR, you can use your 6-volt generator -- just take it to a good electrical shop and have them replace the 6-volt field coils with 12-volt ones. Just don't forget to replace your voltage regulator...
5.Replace your 6-volt bulbs (headlights, taillights, parking lights, dash lights, dome lights, etc) with 12-volt bulbs.
6.Put a ballast resistor* in the line between the ignition switch and the coil
7.Put a voltage reducer* in the power line to each 6-volt accessory switch (radio, heater, etc)
8.Put a Standard Ignition* in the line to the gas gauge.
9.Install a 12-volt coil
10.Install a 12-volt battery that fits your battery tray (duh).
11.Power up the system and check it out.
This is straight from the Stovebolt pages.

From my records your truck was built in Kansas City, Kansas. I do not have the codes for a 1 1/2 ton and bigger trucks. Anyone else have the codes for Bill?

Thanks for your help.

Bill, welcome and glad to hear you want to fix up up a "big" truck. There's a very knowledgable group here eager to help out. If you need a part, don't forget to checkout MotherTrucker's inventory. Drop him a line and he'll let you know if he has it for you. He's been in the business for many moons and knows a lot. Anyway, to add to Johnny's post, "K" is 4400 series, 161 inch wb. The 4400 uses the same frame as the 2 ton, where the 4100 uses a 1 ton frame with extentions in the front for the bigger sheetmetal. The next digit is "L" which is the month made, December. The other numbers which you couldn't read clearly is the sequence number of the truck built at that plant. Now do yourself a huge favor and call the Chevy hotline at 1-800-222-1020 and ask for a RESTORATION PACKET specifically. They are FREE and are loaded with info for each model year with car and truck being separate. Just have your year and vin handy. Its great info for people keeping their vehicle stock. Also if you don't already have a "1948-52 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual" or the "1947-55 Chevrolet Truck Factory Assembly Manual", get them when you can. In my opinion these three are a must. There are many others that you can pick and choose from. This would be a new discusion in itself. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions. -Jason

Thanks for all the information

I just got my drive shaft back (needed new U joints) it seems this drive train is not orginal
The drive shaft is not enclosed the shop guy said that 1951 shafts were ensclose.

This is a real educating process, but it's fun.

I just about have the truck running. unforunately it going to be about three weeks before I can get back to it.

Thanks for all your help

Bill T

Bill, The larger trucks in 1951 had an open drive shaft, like yours the pickups and smaller trucks and cars had torque tube or enclosed driveshafts

Mr. Mack

I was talking to the mechanic that sold me the truck, He also said that the larger 1951 trucks had and open drive shaft.

This is an education process. I appreciate your info.

Thanks

Bill

A stupid question?
Why does this post not fit on my monitor?

Don

Don, I wondered about that, It started with Bills post starting this topic,it seems that his post is the only one that effects my computer screen that way, Maybe Billy Barker knows what happened, try sending him a message.

You guys just need the new version of Screen Decreaser Version 8.1 and if that doesn't work for only $19.95 get the upgrade package version 8.2. After all that if you still see big wear Beer Goggles, hehehehehehehe...

Not responsible for injury or accidents due to following the use of this product. You must be 21 or older to use. :p :p

OK Johnny F tell us about useing transmission oil for U-joints, when I see a zert fitting it gets Marfac 3 or something close! We had a problem with power guns blowing the seals but the fix was worse, a pressure relief valve that slung ALL the grease out, we went back to a shot of grease from a hand gun, maybe you know something we need to know?

Johnny, my father has been a mechanic since 1956 and has worked on many many vehicles with this type of lubrication. Your answer is no, the needle bearings did not change; the grease did. You can put grease in a needle that is not oiled by the transmission, like an open drive shaft. However, do not put grease on any needle bearings inside a torque tube or enclosed axle. That is SAE 90 just like you said. Today's greases are far more superior than the old goop and that is about all you can call it was goop. Hope this helps.