VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 MOTOR RE-BUILD

HI, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A '32 MOTOR RE-BUILT IN NORTH CENTRAL FLORIDA? THANKS, GATOR

Gator, can't help you there, but don't make the mistake I made a go to your local machine shop. Make sure they understand the stove bolt six. Most of these shops a working on new engines and do not have a clue...ask the questions and ask for references..cover your tail. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Leo

That is for sure about useing a machine shop that caters to the newer engines, One I know told me every 235 he has rebuilt the head on, sticks a valve after about 1000 miles, he wondered what to do? I didn't say anyhing except . "Thanks for the info, I'll see you later." ( Maybe he used the wrong reamer, or guides, valves, or maybe they weren't oiling, who really knows?)

Most good automotive machine shops can bore the block, grind the valves, install new valve guides, etc. Most don't understand poured bearings or engines that only have 5 psig oil pressure. No matter who does the work get references and follow-up on what they do. Our local machine shop does good machine work if you watch them. We have to double check oil passages, etc. as they sometimes get in a hurry. Larger cities will have a race car engine building shop that can do the line boring and balancing. You will need to find someone to pour the bearings if yours are bad. If not make sure that the shop does not eliminate the shims when machining the parts and they don't set the tolerances too tight. 0.001-0.002" is good for the main and rod bearings. Definately not less than 0.001".

HEY GUYS, THANKS FOR THE INPUT, I HAVE BEEN TOLD CONFLICTING STORIES ABOUT THE '32 MOTOR. POURED OR SHELL BEARINGS? WHAT SHOULD BE THE DRIVING SPEED(WHEN RE-BUILT)? SOME THINK A LATER MODEL STOVEBOLT WOULD BE BETTER? THE CAR WAS GOTTEN FROM THE ORGINAL PURCHASER'S FAMILY, I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT ORGINAL, UNLESS IT IS NOT PRACTICAL ON TODAY'S ROADS (REGULAR ROADS, NOT INTERSTATES). THANKS, GATOR

Later model six-cylinder engines won't do you much good unless you change the rear-end and go to a higher gear ratio. A 3.50 ring and pinion is now available for 1932 and coupled with the original 1932 engine, you can cruise and 60 to 65 MPH with no problem. I believe that the new gears sell for around $780 per set. :eek: :confused:

gator, contact the closest VCCA chapter and see if one of their members can recommend a good rebuilder to you. Even with a recommendation take the time to check out the shop to see what kind of work they do, ask for ref's and talk to some of there customers if you can. As the JYD said the only solution to the highway speed problem is to change the rearend gear ratio. This can get expensive if you can find the gear you need they are in the $700-$800 range.

THANKS, JYD DO YOU KNOW WHO SELLS THE RING AND PINION (3.50)? THANKS, GATOR

Gator,
The mains are babitted inserts. The rods are babitted. The mains need to be semi-finished and then line bored in the block with full set of shims in place. Crank checked for straightness prior to installation.
You should be able to drive 50-55 with the 4.11 rear ratio. 60-65 with the 3.5 gears.
Original brakes will stop in reasonable distance if properly adjusted and woven linings used.

Hey Gator! You can get the 3.50 gears from Larry Jackson in Santa Maria, California. Here is his phone number, and tell him that I told you to call: (805)937-8171. Good luck!

HEY GATER I INSTALLED THE GEARS IN MY CAR AND I BOUGHT THEM FROM LARRY JACKSON. HE MADE ANOTHER RUN A FEW MONTHS AGO AND THEY ARE PERFECT. :) :) :) :) :) :)

HI, THANKS FOR THE INFO. DID THE '32 COME STOCK WITH A 4.11 REAR? THANKS, GATOR

Yes!

My 34 Standard has the 4.11 diff, and I can tell you, at 40 mph the motor is revving pretty hard, so having a bigger motor won't help if you want to keep up with the freeway traffic.