Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#58489 08/28/06 02:29 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
Hi!
I am about to bolt the body of my 1928 touring back on the frame. I am a bit uncertain about the original way of putting the splash aprons and where to put these regarding the body spacers ( of 3" brake web") and if there was used any body webbing or similar over ,under ,or against the frame, or against the body. Are the splash aprons supposed to be against the body (over the spacers) or on the frame (under the spacers) And if there are any special considerations or modern ways of doing this that would be better?
Best regards Stig Rusten

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#58490 08/28/06 02:58 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
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Technical Advisor
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ChatMaster - 10,000
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Webbing, splash apron, and body in that order.

Agrin


RAY


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#58491 08/28/06 07:08 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 56
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 56
I'm not close yet to lifting my 25 body back on the frame but I'm curious as to what your lift points are going to be. I lifted my body off by securing belts around the rear and cowling area in the front. However, with all new paint and other investments how are you lifting the body?


Jim
#58492 08/28/06 11:33 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
It has been done by pure manpower , and is now sitting on the frame with 2x4 wood between the frame and body, which was used for lifting it on. They will also be used to lift for final positioning and removed with manpower when the time comes. Thank you for the information on the way to do the final installation of the body!
Stig

#58493 08/30/06 08:30 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 88
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 88
Stig,
You need to hunt around to find a webbing that is not water absorbant like the original, thereby avoiding rust problems later on.
I used some strips of reinforced insertion rubber 30 years ago on my '25 and it has not squeeked or been any problem all that time. It is readily available in varying thicknesses or you can build the layers up to the desired thickness using thin strips. Once in place with a body bolt through them they will not move.
Another trick to save you getting premature ulcers, is to alter the thickness of each packing, as determined by trial and error, as a way of getting the final door fit correct. I have found that even if a body has perfect alignment prior to fitting to the chassis, it will distort when bolted down tight. Very thin packing strips can be made of a plastic, floor linoleum/ vinyl being ideal. The distortion is usually ever so slight but enough to cause doors to stick or misalign in the most irritating of ways.
Good Luck.
Geoff. chevy

#58494 09/03/06 04:18 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10
Thanks to all! This gives me the information I need to be able to finish this part of the job.
Stig


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