VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 gasoline

I have acquired a 1928 Chevy 2 dr sedan (today) and do not know what kind of gas to use in it. The man I purchased it from did not know. He had it for 2 yrs and had not run it very much. The engine is 4 cyl. My 1950 chevy sedan 6 cyl requires lead additive to regular gas. Could anyone tell me about the 1928? My e-mail address is lashua 417@aol.com. My VCCA membership is 41964. Any precautions I should know about so I don't fry anything? The grease monkey designation seems appropriate, unless there is a lower category, such as "wrenchbender" or "not allowed under the hood without adult supervision".

Neither the '28 or the '50 require anything except for regular unleaded. Leaded fuel was not available when the '28 was manufactured. The compression ratio is so low that it is nearly impossible to reach the exhaust valve temperatures to cause any problem with it. The '50 could reach the temperatures that could cause valve or valve seat problems if driven at sustained high speeds (like 70+ mph for hours) or if towing a trailer. But if normal driving at normal speeds there is not need for additives for it either. I understand the "just to be safe mentality" and the opinion of numerous "experts" and the "horror stories" that someone will tell you but none of those change the lack of need.

Chipper Dipper is correct, no lead additive is needed. You are just wasting your money! I have a 1951 Chevrolet and it has been running on unleaded for about 12 years or more. My 1968, 1969 and 1972 Chevrolets all have been running on unleaded for that period of time as well, and I have never had a problem.

Just take your 1928 to the gas station and tell them to "fill'er up"!

Yup.......same with my 63 since 64 (bought it used) nothing to worry about except the stuff mentioned above.

The question of unleaded gasoline in an old car was addressed in an engine rebuild school I attended about 20 years ago. The instructor rebuilt engines all day long in an auto machine shop. He said that after three tanks of leaded gas the valve seats had enough lead impregnated into the valve seats to last a life time. The lead acted as a cushion on the valve seat. There was no need to install stellite seats or use lead additive.

That is the exact same thing that I have heard also. All of my cars prove that statement since they have been running on unleaded for years and years with no valve problems of any kind.

the only thing i add to my fuel is a couple of gluggs of atf when i fill up . i can tell the differance in the sound of the engine when i do add the atf may be because the engines are tight . only one stuck valve in the 31 before i started using the atf . there are other products that are being used but i buy the atf in five gallon cans and it is the most economical for me . hope this helps

Push, it that a couple GLUGGs out of a quart oil bottle or out of a coffee can, or the 5 gallon can??

Thanks to all of you. I knew I could find the right answer from Chevy guys. "Experts" had told me differently, but none of them owned old cars. Thanks again. Now to get started on cleaning her up. Would like to be on the road when it cools down in Nevada.

a.j.,

thanks to the good advice above, you'll be saving money AND saving the environment from unnecessary pollution...


epi

Back in the 70s & 80s when this eruption from vendors about needing "Lead Additive" I bought a large bottle of Stwert Warner CR7 Genuine lead additive for internal combustion engines. It has enough for 340 gallon in the one qt. bottle with a little internal measureing section, never been opened. It is so cute I have it over my desk to remind myself of those younger & dumber times!

Whatever grade doesn't ping is "jes fine."

push mentions above that he adds a few chugs of atf to a tankful of gas...some like to use mmo...any issues with these concoction, say, if left over winter?..separation, etc?..would it help coat the fuel tank and leave a bit of corrosion resistent sheen?..


epi

I add a pint on MMO before winter storage.Its made for that purpose and have never had a problem (drive for several miles after adding)...I have also added 2 cycle oil for the same reason with not problem (except smelly exhaust).
I believe that the MMO prevents the valves from sticking, lubricated carburetor plunger and leaves an oil film in the tank.Also I never fill the tak as I don't want a tank full of old gas in the Spring....even with a full tank only the sides and bottom are coverd with gas and the top open.

thanks, gene...so you're adding a pint of mmo to maybe two gallons of gas in the tank?..


epi

Pardon my egnorance, however what is MMO and ATf?

"Marvel Mystery Oil" and "Automatic Transmission Fluid".

Hey AJ.
For what it is worth from down under, I have run my '25 Chev and '34 Terraplane on unleaded fuel for years since it first became available (at least 10 years ago), without any additives whatsoever and have not had a single problem. And those two vehicles are at the opposite ends of the performance spectrum.
Actually both cars can stick valves when not used much and a mechanic friend at the time told me not to worry about upper cylinder lubricant, just use unleaded fuel- that is why aircraft fuel has always been unleaded. The Terraplane has not stuck a valve since and the Chev only rarely.
Good Luck,
Geoff. :)

A Fuel & Lubrication expert with SUNOCO tells me that unleaded fuel without lead additives is fine in old cars that are not operated at high RPM's.
He says if you have an old race car or old sports car that you routinely operate at high RPMS, then you need the additives.

I think that the higher compression ratio engines such as the high that are kept in high performance condition, will benefit from higher octane gasoline and should be fed a higher octane fuel from the pump.
However, having said that I find that our 1968 Impala with the 275 HP 327 really doesn't ping on the modern 87 Octane gas, unless you try accelerating above 70 MPH. If your engine is in prime condition and it pings, you should go to a higher grade of gasoline, however the lead additives sold probably have little real effect on the pinging. Pinging can damage your engine if it is regularly heard. (IMHO)
One solution is to buy the special racing gasolines, or go to an airport and buy the 110 octane low lead Aviation gasoline, it probably is no more costly than the additives you have to measure and mix with gasoline, the additives should be blended into the gasoline rather than hopeing that they will mix evenly in the tank, again(IMHO)

Please remember that lead additives are HARMFUL To HUMANS and they pollute the Environment !

But the bottom line is that unless you have a Corvette engine in your 1928 National Automobile or your 1928 truck, lead additives serve no useful purpose as additives to it's fuel.