VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 cotter pins

With all the dozens of cotter pins on our vehicles, can anyone tell me the proper way to secure them? I have seen them with both legs bent around opposite directions, both legs the same direction, one straight and one bent--what is correct. What would the judges look for?
Dan

Firstly, legs should not be bent all the way back on them selves, both legs should be opened out about 30 degrees from centre. Good engineering practice is to replace pins, whenever removed.Good luck.

Hi Dan,

You may have opened a can of worms with this question - and it is a very good question.

Technically, the cotter pin should have one leg bent towards the top of the nut. Then nipped at the junction of the bolt/nut.

The other leg should be "nipped", then bent downward towards the nut "bottom".

This configuration prevents the nut from spinning, as well as the cotter from turning. It also prevents those sharp, nipped ends from snagging fingertips when working in the general area.

Ollie,
You sure got it right. It is a can of worms.

The cotter pins were likely secured differently by many assembly line workers. I am sure that every possible combination was used sometime in Chevrolet history. In the older cars (20s & 30s) most were bent around the bolt or nut ends without regard to safety.

I doubt that any knowledgeable judge would deduct if the cotter pins installed in a manner to hold the nut or bolt in place. And if the cotter pin was in good condition.

Just one note on installing cotter pins:
One should use the largest size pin that will slip thru the pinning hole of the bolt. The length of the pin should be twice the diameter of the shaft being pinned, also on spindles and any application where there will be a close fitting dust cover be sure the legs of the pin are bent around the nut so that the ends can't drag on the rotating dust cap or hub flange. And only install a used pin when another new pin can't be found, which is quite often when working under a shade tree.

Any luck at all and we can get at least two pages out of this lowly subject!

I agree with the idea that both ends be bent when securing a castlelated or regular nut. However, most pins that I have seen have a shorter leg so it 's easy to grab and bend it back, and re-use if no new ones are avaible.

Humm.......I always thought that 4 penny nails looked cool.

Yeah and you can find them holding most barns together, I think that is what makes old barns fall down, the shade tree mechanics pullout the nails and use them for cotter pins!
I asked an old timer what kind of a pin to use in a 28 disk rim, he said a 4 penny box nail works best!

Yeah but those cost 4 cents! Real carter pins are cheaper...

True, but the 4 penny nails gain more attention from onlookers at car shows than cotter pins.....especially if the nails are either nickel plated or galvanized! :cool2: :eek: