VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 radiator maintenance

am beginning to see bare patches on the radiator core honeycomb that are without paint...the brass is corroding green...what steps should I take to arrest this issue and keep this radiator (at least twenty-five years old, probably much longer) going?..

the coolant inside always looks very clean...

epi

having now been educated to the fact that this corrosion is due to leakage from the core, I will need to replace it soon...

anyone have any comments or suggestions to the process of the removal of the radiator (and all the associated items to facilitate this), so that I may avoid pitfalls and save myself some grief, or worse yet, damage to the roadster?..

thanks in advance,

epi

Kepi,
It is straight forward. First drain the radiator and then loosen the nut that holds the "V" shaped upper radiator support. Loosen the upper hose clamp. There are two carriage bolts throught the bottom of the radiator shell, through the front cross member. Loosen and remove the nuts, washers from the bolts. Unlatch the hood latches. Get another person to help. Now you can move the top of the radiator away from the firewall. Once the middle rod in the hood is clear of the socket the hood can be removed. Take one side and have the other person take the other side. Lift up each side so you can grab the front and back of the hood side. Move the hood forward (away from the cowl). If you each pull the sides toward you a little then the center rod will not scratch the firewall. Ease the hood over the radiator. Set it down on cardboard or fabric with the rear side down and the center rod pointing skyward. Unplug the headlight conduit (wire) from each light. Remove the grommets from the radiator shell and push the conduit in toward the radiator core. Snake the wires from the shell. Once the wires are removed and the bottom radiator hose in loosened and removed from the bottom neck the radiator can be removed by sliding it toward the headlight bar slightly and then lifting nearly straight up. Watch the bottom outlet so it does not get hung up on the fan.

Once you have done it a couple of times you can do the job by your self. It takes a little practice but can be done. That way you will not irritate your helper when something gets scratched, scraped or dropped.

chip,

thanks...I'll walk myself through this a couple of times before I actually attempt it...

only one thing...grommets?..what grommets?..don't you remember that I asked just last week if there are supposed to be grommets in the radiator shell?..

epi

Hi Ya Kepi! Regarding the radiator shell grommets, on May 20th you started a thread asking that question. Chipper Dipper said "Sure are", and also there were several replies listing the size of the grommets and other information regarding the early and late grommets for 1930. You might want to review that post before you order new grommets so that you will get the correct grommets for your radiator shell.

Good luck with your radiator project my friend.

doggy,

of course I recall that thread, I just can't remember what I did five minutes ago...

I was just joking with chip...that's why I added the ...

I meant to add to that post yesterday that this would be a good opportunity for me to install the new grommets...

are there other things that I should check while I have the radiator out?..water pump?..baffle plate?..kitchen sink?..

epi

You might want to check your beer supply before you go any further.

dog,

I'll raise my glass to you anytime, but it'd be diet coke for me...alcohol free for 19 years now, but you can knock one back for me!..

now, about that water pump and baffle plate?..

epi

Humm.........the diet coke might be the problem! ha ha!

Sure, check your water pump assembly and definitely the baffel plate while you are there. The plate should be in good condition and recessed 1" from the face of the water pump flange on the block.

Hey Chevy;
Two things come to mind with your project. When you go to put it back in the crossmember, remember that the mounting plate for the radiator uses carrage bolts with square shanks on them to prevent spinning while tightening them down. What I did was to use those spongy inserts (you can make your own with pipe insulation) in a deep socket to help get them started.
On those rubber crommets, maybe the JYD can explain why some of them turn a greenish color after time. Is it the heat thru the radiator shroud or just cheap rubber? :confused:

rgwiz,

since I've never done this before, I'm not following on the sponge insert in the deep socket...I understand that there are carriage bolts and I think you're referring to an insert like those found inside a spark plug socket wrench, but how does this help in this procedure?..

yes, I'd like to know about the grommet discoloration...I don't have grommets now, so they must have rotted out years ago...when I do get some, I'd like to know how long they'd last...maybe I should ordre spares, too, if they don't last long?..

epi

Chevy;
The spongy stuff in the deep socket will help in getting the nuts back on. The nuts are located up in the crossmember and pass thru the fender brace so ya can't get your fingers up in there. I did this by myself so the radiator/shell unit was moving around and that made it even more difficult. it works just like a spark plug socket like you said.
I think some tool places (Sears) sells a magnet insert. That would work even better. :arrow:

Chevy;
I just went into the garage to check. The radiator bolts are the smaller bolts out towards the end of the crossmember. Not the large pair in the middle. Those hold the fender brace. The crossmember has a hole cut in it for the nuts to pass thru that go on the radiator bolts. It's not easy to finger start the nuts with a washer too. So I used the spongy stuff to raise the nut inside the deep socket and put a little grease on the end of the socket to hold the washer and lock washer. You'll know what I mean when ya get to that point. Don't panic, take your time, and get a freind to hold the rad/shell unit while you are under there.
Good luck!

Reminder...."Chevrolet" has a 1930, not a 1932. :eek: :eek:

Duh!
How was I supposed to know that....Sorry. Anyway when ya get a 32, that's how it's done.

rgwiz,

thanks anyway...maybe this is the impetus for getting a '32?.. ...sounds like I'm missing all the fun...

epi

Yeah 32's are nice, but I'm sure your 30 is also. I'd give it all for a roadster. Good luck! Ya know, some of those tips might come in handy. My Dad showed me a lot of stuff that I still use every time I'm in a jam. God bless him...

rgwiz,

when I get more garage space, I can dream about a '32...

epi

Yeah and a 55 2dr w/post, and a 69 Z28, and another Vette, and...should I go on? I'll be single in no time!

rgwiz,

oh yeah, well the '32 is actually in line after a cameo...

epi

and........the SSR!