VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1926 aluminum radiator shell repair

Has anyone tackled extensive repair of the aluminum radiator shell? Mine and most of the used ones that I can locate are corroded through, especially at the base area. Trucks for that year had a steel metal shell and many restorers use that short cut and paint it in an aluminum paint. I have also seen quite a few that had the shell restored and chrome plated. I am just stuck on trying to restore the original aluminum one but haven't found any specialty shop that may be willing to tackle such. Any ideas??

You have hit on a very difficult item if you are restoring a 1925-28 4-cylinder. A few years ago a fellow in CA was making all years. He has long since made his last aluminum shell. About the only thing you can find now is a shell missing most of the lower section. There are craftsmen who can make that repair, but most shops that do the polishing really don't want anything to do with an aluminum shell regardless of its condition. The problem is that the aluminum is so thin that it is extremely difficult to polish without "burning" it and distorting the shape. The quality of the “airplane metal” was not very good. The antifreeze of the time was also very corrosive. Some shops insist you make a wood mold to place inside the shell while polishing. As mention, there is a fairly good supply of the commercial shells. These are steel. Anything you do to them will loose points on judging. I have heard of a process of coating the steel shell with aluminum. Have not seen it done. Unless someone secures the molds from the fellow that used to make them and goes into business we are faced with a dilemma. Should we modify the rules for judging and allow painted/chrome steel shells? What to do?.....What to do?

Ray
Do you know what type of casting process was used to reproduce the shell. I have an alluminum processer that does work for me that is quite good.
Not sure what the market would stand for in $ final cost.
Be glad to look into it.
Hans

hey 25 the original looked to be stamped may have been 3 different dies used the reproductions that i have seen looked like they were made in sections did not fit exact but better than nothing . im not ray but may be this helps ,

Scott's Old Auto Rubber in downunder may be able to help you. I believe that he can supply repros in both aluminium and stainless steel at a reasonable price.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Regards, Peter Moody

Some more background as I understand it. Shortly after the VCCA was established, the club sponsored a search for original shells for the 1925-26-27-28 cars. Once these original shells were located oak molds(?) were made for each year. Not being privy of the exact manufacturing process I do not know how it was done. Inspection of several shells that were made indicated to me that they started with a sheet of aluminum; it was cut into some pattern and then formed around the oak molds. You can see numerous seams by looking at the back/inside of the shell.

For more information on this subject I suggest you read the stories in the G&D from the time period 1961 through 1970.

Peter: I looked at the site you recommended and was unable to find any information about the shells?

25 Speedster: Would be interesting for you to contact your aluminum worker and see what he could do. As to price, the last ones that I have knowledge of sold for approximately $500 for the 25-26-27 and the 28 was $550.

Anyway it appears to me that there is a market for these 4 years, providing a good product was produced. The last of the original shells left a bit to be desired, but as previously mentioned were better than what was available.

I think I know where the original molds are located if someone wants to run with this project.

Here is the link to the radiator shells down under:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~ausrov/CHEVROLET%201925-26.htm

Scroll down to ENGINE/FIREWALL/GEAR BOX and you will see the raditaor shells listed there. No information other than a part number. You have to email them with the part number for a price.

I have been in contact with the folks down under and they do NOT reproduce any of the shells.

Well that's an interesting history and if someone comes up with the location of the so-called oak molds I guess I might tackle the possibility of manufacturing such in quantity. But for the time being, I guess I'm back to the question: Is there any vendor out there that is an aluminum panel beater/welder that can repair an original that is corroded across the bottom? Any ideas?

MikeyBoy

Somehow I thought that was an answer to your problem. It is just not practical to work with the quality of "airplain metal" that was the state of the art in the 20's.

If you are serious, I will head you in the direction of the previous effort to produce these shells.

As usual I talk before my mind engages.
The aluminum manufacturer I spoke of is a caster not a bender.
Molding is altogether another art.
Bout face:
How about a marine propeller shop, they do magic on aluminum propellers and will work by the hour on most any project.
We have a great one here in the Houston, Texas area.
You should have no trouble finding on in your area, beside this is their off season.
Hans

Finally gathered some information about radiator shells. The information below is for a REPAIR PANEL and is made to order. Note it can be steel or aluminum. Have not used one of these and the seller does not have any pictures for us.
Radiator surround insert - 1928 (fibreglass) 1 918.71101 $126.74 ea
Radiator surround repair panel - 1927 (alum) 1 918.10202 $242.80 ea
Radiator surround repair panel - 1927 (steel) 1 918.10203 $246.49 ea
Radiator surround repair panel - 1928 (alum) 1 918.10204 $204.61 ea
Radiator surround repair panel - 1928 (steel) 1 918.10205 $192.45 ea

Dollars quoted are Australia

OK Guys

There are a number of ways to go about repairing the 1926 aluminum shell. If you have a good body guy you can make a paper template of the shell and transfer the size to a sheet of aluminum. Use a swagging machine to put in the mould. Or you could make a male and female timber die to suit the mould and press it into the sheetbetween the two.
Once this has been done then bend and shape over a piece of metal tubing that suits the radius. You will have to work and weld up the corners and finish. When you have made the repair section and marked and cut for the new section to be fitted to the shell take extra time to get the joint as close as possible. The big trick is to find someone who can TIG weld the new section and get them to use helium gas as it gives better control when welding the light gauge materials. I have found that mag wheel repair guys and motorcycle repair guys are very good at this type of work.
Understand that the repaired shell will always have a different color at the weld area compared to the new and old Aluminum as it all polishes up different. So think about the end result before you invest the time and money.
If all else fails ship it here to Australia and we can fix it. The 1926 is the easier one to remake, its the 27 -28 rad shell bottoms that get a little harder to fix. Hope this helps good luck.
TWIN 4

I vote to take it and a few others to Australia your self on Quantos, Deliver them to the shop and watch 'em getting fixed, visit a few places, take a cruize around the shore and put one of the shells up for sale that way you can deduct the expenses on your income tax and "supervise" the repair!