VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Starting Mothballed Engine

I am purchasing a 1928 Chev with a 4 cyl. motor. The owner reports that it ran when put into storage, but has not been started in several years. Looking for advice on how to proceed with getting it running again. I've heard of removing plugs and squirting some oil in the cylinders. Suggestions??

Drain the oil. Refill with 20w non-detergent as there likely will be some sludge, water in the pan. Take out the distributor and with a slotted ended rod spin the oil pump with a variable speed drill on the rod. A couple of hundred rpm is all that is necessary. Have an assistant verify on the gage that there is oil pressure. Anything above zero is ok at this point. Do not turn over the engine with the distributor out. Add a few drops of oil to each cup on the starter, generator, and shaft of the water pump.

Drain the coolant and replace with water. If there is any chance of freezing add antifreeze.

Replace the distributor in the same position as removed. Check the cap for cracks, condition of rotor and points. Check wiring for bare spots or thin insulation. Tape any bad spots or replace. With a charged battery connected turn on the ignition switch and check for spark when points are opened and closed. If there is spark replace rotor and cap. With fuel shut off at vacuum tank turn over the engine and check for spark at at least one plug wire end. Remove and check spark plugs for color and condition. Clean and or regap is otherwise in good condition. Write down the condition of each plug and the cylinder number. You can add a squirt of ATF or MMO to each cylinder if you wish. It will cause lots of smoke when it starts but should clear up in a few mintes of running.

Drain the vacuum tank noting the odor of the fuel removed. Remove the fuel line from the tank and add new fuel to the tank with the valve closed. Open the valve and tap the fuel inlet on the carb. Shut off immediately if the carb overfills. It will be necessary to clean the carb.

If no leaks then you can try to start the engine. Retard the spark, advance the throttle a little. Push the starter button, if the engine turns over then pull out the choke for no more than 10 revolutions. If it starts or acts like it is firing then continue for a few more revolutions. If it starts push in the choke at least 1/2 the way, then advance the spark and back off on throttle. As soon as possible fully open the choke. Note the oil pressure and if the generator shows positive amperage. Let idle at a fast idle until the intake manifold is no longer cold to the touch. (That assumes that the tube from the stove on the exhaust pipe is connected to the air inlet on the carb. If not it should be particularly in colder climates.)

If it does not start or even fires then remove the tube from the air inlet of the carb and squirt a short burst of carburetor cleaner into the inlet. Try to start again. It should fire if you have a good spark but will only run a very short time. If it fires then you will need to work on getting fuel through the carb. (Free the needle, check the float for holes, inspect for blocked orifaces etc.)

Good luck, The above assumes that the engine is free (turns over with crank, large screwdriver on flywheel or starter. If it does not turn over then it will be necessary to get it to turn over first. DO NOT force the engine to turn over with excessive force as you can bend the crankshaft!

If you get that far and it will not run then ask for plan B.

A couple of things you might want to try.....before doing any of what Chip suggested pull the valve cover clean out the feltpad in kerosene or diesel squirt oil around the valve stems and the rocker shaft where the arms rotate, tap lightly on each valve spring to see if the valve is stuck in the guides. also ....with only one rear wheel jacked up put the car in gear and see if the clutch disengages when pushed in, turn the rear wheel forward in 2nd gear against the engine and have someone push the clutch all the way down and the wheel should turn, if not check to see if the brake band is stuck or dragging then if you have a cranking handle see at this point if the engine will turn over and in turn if it will turn the raized wheel and the fan and water pump and generator while it is in second gear.

Good suggestion Wackie. I had assumed that the car recently had rolled or will roll during the transport from the previous owner to LryGuy.

Checking the valves would surely be in order if the engine does not easily turn over. I should have mentioned the valves, bending push rods in addition to bending the crank. Guess that blonde got to me again? She sure is a Sweet one!!! One Foxy Grandmother!!!

Thanks for the good advice guys. I printed it out for a "check sheet." It will help me focus on being patient and prudently careful. I ordered some manuals from "The Filling Station", but was dissappointed when they indicated they were "backordered".....

LryGuy, You can order manuals off the internet direct from Faxon Auto Literature. They often have manuals on eBay.

That is what is so neat about this site, you ask a question, then one member will answer, then another will add to that so on and so forth.
Chipper dipper doodle , have you been eating too much of the Sweet's sweets? maybe she puts some thing in the candy besides sugar? "Know what I mean"? maybe some smart pills? :arrow:

Chipper
I too read your reply with interest as LryGuy and I are in the same boat, so to speak.
I recently purchased a 1915 Amesbury Special, it is an older cosmetic restoration of what appears to be a very good original car. It sat in a museum and possibly wasn't moved for 10 years or more. The wheels are hard to turn as the grease has gone hard, ditto with the steering box, and possibly other parts.
Most of the things you mentioned I had on my list, a couple I have now added.
My job is far larger as even though I've owned Chev 4's for over 30 years, I have found only 2 parts on this car that resemble a Chev 4, the radiator badge and the head. I also have a cone/leather clutch to contend with, as well as 3 universal joints, a magneto/generator and the strangest looking starter motor I've seen.
Having a couple of weeks off soon I will start the slow process of checking everything over very thoroughly as I can't afford to damage anything as I guess parts for these beasts are near non existant
I'll let you how things work as I progress
Chris

I've never owned a car like this before. Reading Chipper's advice above, I note there are 2 small levers in the center of my steering wheel. I'm assuming one is the spark advance. Is the other a throttle adjustment?
Ron

You are correct. Throttle on the left and spark on the right.

What is the oil capacity of a '28 4 cyl? Also, should non-detergent oil be used all the time, or just after long period of disuse? I don't see an oil filter. Is there one?

Hi,

Oil capacity of the 1928 engine is 4 quarts without a filter and 5 with.

Depending on past history of the engine I am a strong believer in 10 W 30 DETERGENT.

Your engine originally had an oil filter. This filter is readily available and I recommend you use it.

I like the sound of using dtergent oil. I too don't think too much of running an engine with non-detergent oil. Still, I don't want to mess anything up so hence my asking. I'm still waiting for the manuals I ordered. Where is the oil filter located. Perhaps I am overlooking it. Is there a replaceable element?

When you receive your Owners Manual take a look at page 35.

The oil filter is under the coil bracket on the right (passenger) side of the engine.

You don't change the element, but replace the filter as a unit. The unit is available from several vendors.

If this is not clear from looking at the OM email me and I will send pictures of the installation.

...and as to the throttle (counter clockwise) is fast. The spark advance rod goes thru the slot between the cylinders and hooks to the distributor on an arm, pulling the control down (clockwise) retards the spark for starting, then after the engine is running smooth advance the spark all the way (counterclockwise) not retarding the spark when starting the engine can cause the engine to "kick back" and that can damage the starter, or break the arm of the one useing the hand crank! Not advanceing the spark while driving can cause low power and engine heating.

The only difference between detergent and non-detergent oil is obviously detergent. Now that I have stated the obvious let me state something that is not. Detergents are added to oil to help suspend small particles, dissolve sludge & varnish. The detergents will hold some of the stuff in suspension for nearly ever and others (mostly the bigger ones) only when the oil is circulating. Modern oil filters are designed to remove the suspended particles larger than 1-10 microns (ity bity) so they will not damage the engine. So if an engine has used non-detergent (or detergent oil and has not been run for an extended period) there likely is stuff in the bottom of the pan. There is less potential for damage to run the engine with non-detergent oil for a short period, drain while hot before using detergent oil. The lighter weight the more likely it will loosen the crud in the bottom of the pan.

All modern oils have corrosion inhibitors, acid neutralizer and anti-wear additives. They counter act the exhaust gas, water and other contaminants that can get into the crankcase. I agree with Ray that detergent oils are the way to go. I use them in all my vehicles. I use 30W oil in my older engines mainly because of the high summer temperatures here in Texas. I have not used 10W-30 but don't have a problem with it. Since my lawn mowers use 30W it is cheaper & easier to buy larger quantities. Since it would take many years to use it in the mowers I also use it in the older cars. And I don't want to use 10w-40 Rotella in my cars and the boss gets her oil changed at the drive up place I don't have a need to buy 10W-30. Besides Castrol is overkill for an old Chevrolet.

Sorry for the long post but just got carried away.

Thanks to all for the advice & comments.

I got the motor to run today (sustained).

Life is good.

Isn't that a great feeling? It makes you proud of your accomplishments and sends you back in time. Just think, you can accomplish what car owners did years ago. Congratulations!