VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Depot Hack Taillights, Body and Parts

Hi All:

The new/old Depot Hack is slowly undergoing a change. I have managed to continue on the archeological dig of the frame and suspension. A pressure washer courtesy of Costo, in exchange for some cash, has shed light (for the first time in a long while) on shackles and king pins. I am happy to say no surprise has occurred (as they do not tend to be good, I have yet to find a grease covered $20 gold piece or such..).

The status so far is: I’m a new member of VCCA :) . The distributor and carburetor are vacationing at a spa in Vancouver, WA peeing back the years, the pad’s and wicks are not under my valve cover and are on order and I have yet to tackle the brakes, though they appear to be working well. I have started the process of photos and crawling around.

What little I know/think so far follows;

The numbers:
Casting: Head: 348532, Engine Block: 348532 F29 8
Engine Block #: 4742130
Serial Number Plate on Passenger Side Seat Base:
Model: National, # 2AB81620

The story from the owner in NY was a nice one and he seems a very nice chap. The auto was bought and owned by his grandfather in about 1937. It was still registered as a “Suburban” in NY when I bought it. His grandfather attended Princeton and would take the car to the reunions where it would be decorated as to the theme and held the important job of transporting the Keg(s) of beer. As he grew older the 28 was painted and varnished twice a year. Painted with “a think Black rust paint” and all the wood was varnished over. This is very, very evident. They started the Hack monthly and drove it for fun for 40 years and then it sat in a garage and was then only started monthly. All this looks to be correct, as best I can tell. He said it had not seen rain in 60 years and I was now the third owner.

I have looked at the body. I have described it as an old wood wagon, but a co-worker who grew up on a farm scolded me and said wagons did not have doors. He said it was more like a carriage.

When I saw the first photos of the auto I was on the opinion that it could have been anything from a “Sears/Wards” body kit, a repair body on a damaged car, a backyard farm conversion or a real Taxi. What little I can see is that it appears to be a “finished” construction as a whole. The screws are “bunged” (I hope that is the right word.. Counter sunk with wood plugs). The structure looks “light”, or frail, to me but the only thing that looks too good to be true is the bottom of the wood on the top. It looks like a new unvarnished wood, but the top appears to be old and brittle with time (also painted black). I suspect it was fixed in the 50’s or 60’s… just a guess as I am just learning about all this (much of what I have come to understand is courtesy of you guys in this forum.. Thanks!!)

The door handles are T’s that attach to an offset “loop” that when closed (turned) pull the door shut.

I was going to buy a new taillight lens before I got the Hack. Luckily I waited as the taillight is “round” with no marking, it is not the one I see on a normal AB National. I did find another Chevrolet Depot Hack on a woody site (A very, very nice one by the way!) and, lo and behold, it also has a round taillight in the picture.

Now the really odd thing about the Hack is that I have come to describe it as a Star Trek Deport Hack, as it looks like Scotty tried to beam it up and it was turned inside out! Every other Hack I have seen has the structural ribs (I hope that makes sense..) on the outside. This baby has the ribs/framing on the inside?
Nothing appears new on the auto and changes were most likely made 30+ years (or more ago).

AntiqueMechanic has, kindly, been a great help and I have decided on an initial plan for the Hack.

#1: Tenting by Terminix (Just kiddin’)

The plan I have, as the body is a mystery for now, is to take all the mechanics back in time to 1928 (or as close as I can get) slowly, but surely. By this I mean things like return the Fuel system back to the vacuum fuel pump and get the steering wheel controls and foot started switch along with all switches, gauges, mechanically/cosmetically refurbish/restored. I may get an alternator (6v of course) if I do a lot of night driving and put the ol’ generator back in for those “looking good” days. I plan on getting some “black rust paint” and “varnish” and adding to the layers for now. I have some fender end rust at the floor boards and I will repair all that along with some of the more obvious dents. I am not sure what to do with my door hinge bumper guards as I do have great fun pointing them out to unsuspecting passers by . So, in short, mechanically “restored” under the hood and body but the “look” will be trying to retain the same ragged face for now. I know I am sick, but I kind of like keeping the image up as if I just drove across the US looking like the Clampets arriving in Beverly Hills. If I can ever find out what it may have looked like in 28 that will make a good beginning of a second stage. At my speed I may turn 39 a few times more before I see a second stage..

I would appreciate any ideas, opinions or suggestions. We have speculated on the “reverse” Hack and wondered if it could have held advertisements? Have I been snookered and sold a 1998 Fred’s Depot Hack conversion (it’s OK, I just like looking at the old’ girl.. won’t hurt my feelings) as an original? It would be fun figuring out the body. Before I forget.. If you would like to see some pictures I have it on www.depothack.com and this weekend I will put up some more detailed (and hopefully better quality) photos. I am afraid I am a bit rusty at the Web thing and photography.

Questions:
The T shaped door handles.. Anyone ever see these on anything else. I have two the same and one is on its own.. Maybe rumble seats handle??
Seats: My front seat appears to be original (Is the # on it logical?) and I would like to get to a 3 seat arrangement. I have a wood bench now in the second seat position. Any resources for springs? Things to read, resources?
Passenger side windshield frame has an old looking mount base.. Anyone know what it might have been?

Well, the Supervisor is under the weather and I had best turn off the computer for the night and let her sleep. I will write more if I find anything interesting. Thanks for reading and have a great Labor Day weekend. If any of you are in Florida my best wishes are sent your way.

Joe

Ugh..

Line six should have read..

PEELING back the years <---

Sounds like a kinky water diet as written.. I am a spell checker addict and a lousy proof reader..

Sorry :o ..

Looks real good from my prospective. The body appears to be made by Springfield. From a '28 Springfield Commercial Body Co. Inc. sales booklet: "This very attractive body is constructed from 3/8" Plywood panels inside and outside over an air seasoned hardwood frame, making it very durable and strong but light in weight." The illustration in the book is the same as your port side photo.

My '28 Canopy Express also has a round tail light. I though it was not correct but there is not enough room for an oval one.

Looks like you have a real workable plan.

One of my 27 Trux has a round taillight with no brake light, part number #345950, that I thought was standard. Where as the #358674, on other 27s, was an accessory. . .
If restoration ever occures, I plan on using two #358674 with a large red triangle on rear of vehicle so I can drive it and not have to trailer it.

ChevyChip and Lou you have made my day!!

>The body appears to be made by Springfield.
>From a '28 Springfield Commercial Body Co. Inc.

Yahoo!!!!! (and not the web site)

>"This very attractive body ...

Wish that could be said about me :rolleyes: !!

>My '28 Canopy Express also has a round tail
>light. I though it was not correct but
>there is not enough room for an oval one.

I will take mine off this week and look for the numbers (Thanks Lou!). I too have been thinking about the two lights and turn signal mods. Not sure how many people out there remember hand signals these days as it looks like most don't even know what the little lever is for on the left side of the steering wheel, if my commute is any indicator.

>Looks like you have a real workable plan.

Phase 2 just became a possibility sooner than I had ever thought with your help. Might I trouble you for a copy of the info, or a clue of where I might acquire one (I will search the net this PM)?

I did not get the pictures I had hoped for on the web this weekend.. I have to use my Supervisors digital camera and she had to work and the camera was in her purse.

It is always a chore to get the photos, as if I get grease on her Sony camera I may have to change plans and convert the 28 into a motor home so I can have a place to sleep, for doing photography of the hack is a 7 part process; Part 1 is the removal of the hack from the garage, a manual process at the moment, and the “prep” of the target area. Part 2 is the degreasing/cleaning off process of the Big Grey haired photographer, so he can touch the camera, and that is very tricky as one can not touch anything, or track in anything in the process. Part 3 is the actual photography of the 28. Part 4 is the return of the hack to the garage and the removal of evidence (clean garage/driveway). Part 5 is the soaking of the photographer using the same technique mentioned in part 2 but much more detailed in nature and requiring a bath tub. Part 6 requires bath tub rejuvenation. Part 7 is the removal of any prints from the camera and the strategic posing of the photographer on the couch, clutching the remote and looking innocent watching auto racing while waiting for the Supervisors arrival.

Thanks guy’s…..

CheyChip.. I wanted to add (and forgot in the rush to get back to work) that the Canopy Express was the only model that AAA could associate with the Depot Hack when I insured the 28. They even had a nice little picture and I said, yup that is as close as you have to it. They also had a fun time insuring it as a 3 door...

Hi All:

Sorry I did not update sooner as I was “net”less Sunday night when I had planned to.

I removed the tail light and here is what I found. No numbers and the words “to remove press here” on the top of the lens and the numbers “1297” (I think.. the 2 is a bit lopsided, as is the 9) on the bottom of the lens. I have placed the pictures on www.depothack.com (this time before I post.. So I don’t drag my big feet).

I have some questions I’d like to bother you folks with:
#1: This may sound really dumb, but I have not taken apart another 76 year old auto, are the bumps on the housing old age? Was it once smooth?

#2: Is the twist-on connector to the back of the housing the one mentioned in the posts about wiring harnesses and on the harness vendors’ web site? When I order a harness do I ask for the twist connectors I have seen as an option (boy is my wiring in need of re-freshening!!)?

#3: Any need to/does anyone want me to look at anything else? I know judging folks may, or may not, have an interest in this; please let me know if there is anything I can do (as I have sublimated my desire to sand and paint and such). Warm water and engine cleaner were used to clean the housing.

A license plate “light” glass was not in existance/place, nor could I find a retainer for such, there two holes around the opening.

Removal of the lens from the clips (forgive me for sounding 60’s) was a trip. I had to push down and slowly work the bottom of the lens out as I was very, very afraid to break the glass, happily I managed not to do any new damage, the small broken edges were there as found.

I have not yet had much luck finding any Springfield Commercial Body Company :confused: documentation on the Web.. Found lots of data on a Springfield Wagon company that appears to be re-starting. Clues are very welcome and I would very, very happily buy, reimburse and pay for copies of one of the catalogs that have been mentioned.

Hope all is well with everyone; watch out for the darn hurricanes..

Hi All:

Posted twice and could not figure out how to undo it..

Dumb