Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#51969 08/30/02 04:09 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
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Casper Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Does anyone have any tips for repacking the water pump. The service manual is very light on the topic and I wanted to know if there is any particular trick to it. It sounds pretty straightforward but I was wondering whether you just poke the rope up the shaft, cut to exact size, or should you allow some overlap?


Casper
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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#51970 08/30/02 08:30 PM
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I wound the piece around the shaft, I didn't use the whole rope I unraveled a couple of strands, and made several wraps around the shaft a head of the nut, I cleaned the nut out as well as I could with a tooth tool like a denist uses to clean teeth, then greased the shaft and nut with lubriplate waterpump grease. Dad used a regular packing hook, then check how far the nut screws on to the pump, I had to add another strand to get the nut where I liked it. ( I also used some old packing we used on rig pumps ) Now I have some I bought from Gary Wallace, but havent used any of it yet.
note****
Just be sure the shaft will turn with not too must resistance to keep from getting the shaft hot and the belt from slipping!

I found it works better if it really needs repacking, if the nut is almost screwed in. someone on here said it is best when the nut is about 3/4 ways out after packing, not when the nut is barely started. Some pumps have a groove worn where they have run a long time so I guess it is better to not keep it at the same place? .....Boy I wish my Dad was still around to help on this '28 !

chevy chevy bigl yipp


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
#51971 08/31/02 11:18 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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There is another alternative. A neoprene seal is made that is the exact dimension. But use 2 back to back to take out the slack in the tread, and prevent water leaking out and air leaking in due to cavitation. It does require that the pump shaft is in near perfect condition, but once fitted, forget about it forever. During installation, a little vaseline or equivilent will keep the seals pliable and leak free. ighten the nut to gentle spanner tightness and go get a beer.............

#51972 09/02/02 03:50 AM
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Casper Offline OP
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John,

Thanks for the tip. Where do you get these seals from?

I was looking at the shaft while installing some of this rope stuff and note a slight groove so I suspect the shaft may not be good enough. Nevertheless I will probably have to rebuild the whole unit soon so I would be keen to find out where to get these seals from.


Cheers


Casper
#51973 09/03/02 10:00 AM
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Backyard Mechanic
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Hi Casper,
Derek Page in Toongabbie, Australia makes water pump kits for 1918-34 Chevy. We buy them here from most of the 4 cyl dealers. They come with new shaft, impeller, bushings and original style seal material. The seal works quite well on my 28 but you must follow the bushing lubrication instructions ( daily ) faithfully.
Herb

#51974 09/03/02 11:13 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
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I have used flax packing that I buy for the propeller shaft stuffing boxes on boats. Available at most chandlers.


Dale Duffield Tulalip, WA.
1927 Sports Cabriolet (since 1954)

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