The clutch pedal on my 36 was rattling, so I pulled the clutch cover off and this is what I found. I've never worked on one of these clutches, but to me it looks like it needs to be replaced. This of course would require removing the transmission, which does not look like an easy project. Do I need just the throw out bearing or is there more that needs to be replaced?
I can't claim to be an expert on '36s, but what is it you see wrong there? The only thing I see is that the bearing is in contact with the clutch collar in one photo, but not in the other. That would suggest to me that what you have is a broken or missing return spring, allowing the linkage to rattle.
Are there any diagrams etc. that show all the pieces and how they go together? I have the shop manual, but there isn't anything that shows what should be there and where. My problem is that I'm new to this type of clutch so I don't know what is or isn't there.
A 1936 Chevrolet has a pressed graphite throw out bearing. Frankly, to me yours looks in great shape. The slots in the face of it are wear indicators and yours looks almost brand new. These cars were a product of the time and that was a common material throw out bearings were made of.
These cars take a little different driving practice than new cars. One such thing is that a driver cannot sit through a light with the clutch pushed in like is common with much newer cars. We went on a tour in the Modesto area of CA, and some of those lights were 5 minutes long. It will wear down the carbon quickly, and will quickly displace the oil film on the center main bearing thrust washer causing excess wear on it as well. The '36 has synchronizers in 2nd, and 3rd gears. I watch the traffic signals for the crosswalk, lane turn signals, or what ever other indicators work in your area. Push the clutch in and use the 2nd, or 3rd gear synchronizer to stop the transmission. Then pull it down into 1st gear, and go.
Doing this in one of the '29s, or an earlier car is a little trickier since they do not have sychronizers. But the general principle is the same. Watch the crosswalk signals, and other lane turn lights for indicators as to when is the right time. Older Chevrolet's including the '29 do not have a pressurized center main bearing, that feature was implemented with the 1930 model. So it is even more important to not ride the clutch, or run the engine much with it pushed in. Don't ride with your hand on the shift lever as well. Another member did that and it wore the shift fingers, and gear flange to the point they had to be replaced.
Check the clutch adjust instructions, I think you have excess throw out bearing to plate clearance even though it is sitting at a odd angle may be caused by missing or incorrectly positioned return spring. Otherwise I see no problems requiring trans removal. Tony
Beachbum, I had no idea! Thank you very much for your 'driving instructions'! This car is new to me and now that I have the brakes fixed, I can start to drive it. And thank you to the rest of you gentlemen.
The clutch pedal rattle... Is most likely caused by the spring that pulls the clutch linkage back (return spring)... is broken, weak or loose... look underneath and see if you can attach, repair or replace the return spring... so that the pedal has spring tension on it, to prevent the rattle.....
Clutch pedal rattle can be an indicator of worn pedal shaft/bushings. If the pedal moves side to side more than a tiny bit the bushings might need to be replaced.
It appears to me that my clutch has two return springs. The one on the left attaches to the clutch fork itself and the one on the right attaches to the chain and the other end is some kind of Rube Goldberg set up with a heavy wire that hooks into the dirt/dust/mud pan. Doesn't look factory to me. I've looked for clutch return spring and the only one I find that looks like it could work is a short spring with a long leg that you are supposed to cut to length, but how do you know what the correct length is?
