Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#489954 02/26/24 07:46 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I have asked in other forums about wood body strength, and inquired about using carbon fiber or fiberglass on wood skeletons. I have two 1928 sedans, and one is destined to be restored to as close to factory as possible. The wood has been replaced in the last 6 or 7 years, but that is as far as the restoration got with the previous owner. And it has been stored under roof in a dry environment since.

I have read on this forum about using Kwikpoly to strengthen the wood (if it can be found today). My question is about doing a fiberglass wrap of the wood and especially the connecting joints, and if anyone here has experience doing that.

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I have never tried to wrap the wood. Doubt it would work well as the sheet metal fits tightly on most of the wood and the wrap would push the wood away. Adding a reinforcing patch on a side or two might help.

If most of the wood is in good condition it is possible to make pieces to replace bad spots. Cutting an offset on both the original piece and the replacement with modern glue will give a strong repair. I have done it fairly often with good results. Using the original parts even if deteriorated as patterns can be helpful. I have used less costly pine lumber to make parts or patterns, fit them to the remaining wood structure and sheet metal. Then use the pattern to make the final part out of hardwood.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Backyard Mechanic
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As Chipper stated in many places the sheet metal fits quite tight and there would not be room for wrapping with fiberglass. Quality Ash lumber is quite strong. Between using that and the many reinforcing brackets that Chevy used at joints IDK if you could get a much stronger framework unless you switched out to steel, at which point you would not be very close to "factory"
I do personally think with the reinforcement brackets (at least in my truck) that they could have used more through bolting in areas rather than just using wood screws.
As far as the "kwickpoly", I wonder if the context of that was to be used on wood that has been in the framework for sometime, uncared for, and starting to show some signs of age?

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Grease Monkey
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So the first of two cars followed me home today, and the first I have been able to see them in the sunlight. Found out that both have new wood kits, and have been fitted fairly tight to the metal. The 2-door appears to be mainly oak. The 4-door appears to be a lighter grain wood.The 4-door has three windows down each side, so I don’t know what that model is called.

The doors on the 2-door still needs wood reinforcement, but looks to be a simple enough job since there are no compound curves to deal with.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com][Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

And the pile of engines for today’s load. Appears to be two different types. Three have the one bolt side plates to cover the push rods. Two blocks don’t have provisions for side covers, so don’t know what they are.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Last edited by Clayton1961; 03/07/24 07:49 PM.
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The two door is a coach and the four door a sedan (unless it has a convertible top).


Steve D
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Grease Monkey
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So calling a two door automobile a coach, does that go back to the days when Fisher built stage coaches, which were typically a ‘2-door’? There is an old piece of seat back that came with the car that is branded ‘Fisher Body Works’. Will try to get a photo tomorrow.

Another thing that I noticed with the car is a lot of (I think) metal interior trim that came with it is painted a dark green, along with the instrument panel. I think it is factory paint, and is the color that the wife would like it restored to.

Last edited by Clayton1961; 03/07/24 11:52 PM.
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A good source of info is available here: https://www.gm.com/heritage/archive/vehicle-information-kits


Steve D
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I wouldn’t concern yourself with the strength of the wood bodied cars. If you look at old pictures of wrecks you’ll see they faired fairly well even in roll overs. You mentioned you have new wood kits in these cars. New wood will be as solid as a steel body of the day plus more flexible. Not sure if it’s the case but don’t listen to hot rod and Ford guys who claim the wood framing is junk. Ride in a 32-34 ford Tudor or four door and just slam the door closed. It’s a hollow tin can where that wood bodied car sounds and rides solid. All the big classic cars were wood bodied right? If wood was inferior or weak would Packard, Cadillac, Pierce Arrow, RR, etc., have used wood?


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