VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Chevy 3-Speed Transmission Removal Tools List

Hello everyone,

Was just getting ready to pull out my '41 Chevy 3-Speed Transmission in order to start a rebuild. I've never removed this before, and was wondering if anyone had a list of the tools I'll need for the job?

I searched the forums here but could not find a comprehensive list.

There is one very important “special” tool: a shop manual.

Standard wrenches, sockets, pliers, and screwdrivers should be all the hand tools you need.

I do recommend that you get a spare or dummy transmission input shaft. You will need that to align the clutch disc. Really good mechanics can eyeball that alignment. Or they make a dummy shaft by wrapping duct tape around a wooden dowel that fits inside the pilot bushing.

You might want a clutch head screwdriver to pull the transmission cover. I cannot remember if those design screws were used in 1941.

I do have a set of guide pins I thread into the clutch housing to support the transmission when I reinstall it. They are not necessary but really make it easy for one person.

Remember to support the torque tube when you disconnect the drive shaft. It is heavy and will drop quickly.

Thanks very much for that.

I've got everything pretty much disconnected, but I'm having a hard time getting the torque tube out of the way. Do I need to disconnect the rear shackles for that and slide the whole thing back? Or is there any other way to gain the wiggle room to remove the transmission?

I have opted to remove the transmission through the hatch in the floor. The cross-member seems to block removal from underneath quite well.

Do you have the rear axle hanging at the maximum drop? Normally that pulls the torque tube far enough to the rear that you can take the u-joint apart.

You probably have already done this. If you loosen the sleeve on the torque tune slightly you can slide the ball further to the rear. That gives you a little more room to work.

I do not remember when the design changed so you could drop the transmission out the bottom after removing the cross member.

I had not tried letting the rear axle down. I used a floor jack on the back to raise the back drive wheel in order to allow me to spin the u-joint in order to access the various bolts. Are you saying that if I were to let the rear end droop completely to the bottom that would provide enough clearance to withdraw the torque tube?

It would appear that my '41 has a cross member which is not removable making getting the transmission out via the bottom difficult or impossible. Or so it would seem.

When I changed my transmission in my 40, it came out through floor. I did let rear axle hang on the frame (I used some jack stands to hold up frame) to gain some additional clearance to drop torque tube. But be very careful, the torque tube is VERY heavy and will drop suddenly when cleared of cross member. If my memory is correct I had to rotate univ joint a little to line up with notch in cross member to drop the torque tube.

Just be sure you hold up torque tube as you lower it with a jack or other device. it is heavy!!

Definitely let the rear axle hang as far as possible from the frame. That pulls the torque tube away from the transmission.

And as firecars noted support the front of the torque tube with a jack. It is heavy!

I assume that you have removed the front seat. Taking the few minutes to remove the seat really makes it a lot easier to get the transmission out and back into place. And you eliminate the possibility of grease on the seat covers.

This is a great post as I might be rebuilding my 3 speed tranny on my 41 AK.
I just changed the oil in the tranny but the Autoparts store only had GL5 80w90 gear oil. I saw an old post that called for GL3 or GL4 gear oil. Does it make that much difference? My synchros are pretty shot now as I have to double clutch from 2nd to 3rd and almost always get a little grinding up shifting from 3rd to 2nd. Thanks.

Hi Planepal

Many many decades ago GL-5 hypoid oils would attack brass, bronze, etc.
That has NOT been the case for a long long time.
Today's oils have additives that are "buffered" to make them safe with all metals.

And...
I personally have over 50 years of experience showing that GL-5 oils are not only safe to use in your transmission,
but will actually do a better job.

What you have in your transmission is perfectly fine.

Funny how some old tales just never seem to die.

i AGREE 100% with the above.

Good to know. Thanks