VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 235 options for 47 3100 - opinions?

Hopefully it's okay to discuss the cost of stuff here - some forums are don't like that. If it's not okay let me know and I'll edit.

I am starting in on a 1947 3100 project. I have a few options for the engine I am considering. I'd appreciate some opinions on usability vs value etc.

Option 1: Original 216 - this was rebuilt in around 1990 and never run; I took the main and rod bearings apart and re-lubed in about 2010. Original to truck, easiest option, but I live in the mountains with a lot of uphill - especially my steep driveway - worth the effort to replace? Of course I'd keep it as a display in the garage next to the truck.

Option 2: 1957 235 from a truck with 60k original miles for $1850 asking, only needs harmonic balancer and water pump. Nice looking and if as advertised a quick upgrade to 235 goodness. Only thing keeping this from easiest option is the cost.

Option 4: 1955 235 rebuildable core from a car. Numbers are 3836233, B40 918 241 570, and 3835913 GM10. I need to make an offer on this - am thinking $400 if its suitable and in rebuildable condition. Seem like a reasonable offer? I've rebuilt a few engines successfully, so I would do the rebuild. The guy also has rear end, transmission and some other stuff I wouldn't mind having as options as the build progresses.

Option 4: You tell me... different engine? Someone on the forum have something they would part with I should consider? Electric conversion? Reindeer?

Thanks! Excited to get this thing going.

Your truck has 4.11 gears, doesn't weigh very much, and I'm assuming you are not planning to haul rock or grain. I think you will be happy with the original engine. Around here (Missouri) a rebuildable 235 is free or $100. Good running ones bring $250/$400 when they are available. $1850 is out of the question, in my book.
I think the 4 speed transmission you want is called a SM465. They were used up into the 1960s...BUT, you need one that is suitable for an enclosed driveshaft if you are using the original rear end.

Mike

Mike - thanks for reply. Original rear end was frozen so I have a replacement - need to figure out the ratio. Appreciate the input on cost. For context, is 60k miles a lot for a 235?

Just my opinion but my experience is engines of the 235 era didn't have oil filters and poor air filtration. The oil also wasn't as good as today's oil. Most engines needed valve & ring jobs by 50K, a complete overhaul by 75K and were in the junk yard (the whole vehicle) by 100K. Of course there are always exceptions to that. I'm with Mike, as long as you're not hauling heavy loads you should be OK. Even with a 3:73 rear end you'll be fine. While I've not personally done an engine swap I have read and heard a number of stories that replacing a 216 with a 235 or later engine is not a simple swap.

I somewhat agree with Tiny regarding original life of a 235 though I think he is low depending on previous care. If it were mine I would stay with the original engine as long as you plan on using it as it was intended for. If you have other ideas in mind and are willing to spend the extra $$$ then the 235 or even a 261 would be options to consider. I drove 53 & 54 Chevys in the late 50's early 60's and re-ring was due at 75-90 thousand miles and the only reason they would go to scrap was wrecks or rust mite attack.

Use the 216 and keep your money for other work that will surely be needed

Alright - the wisdom of the crowds has spoken. My original inclination was to make the 216 work, so I'll get back on that path. I was thinking of the lifespan of the engine in terms of today's tech - thanks for the in-era perspective!

Hi Matt

I'm late to the party, but...

I agree with the others.
There is nothing wrong with the 216.

I think there is also value in having the original engine in a truck.
As they say, it's only original once.

As for power, I seldom lose more than 1 car length to the rest of the traffic at stop lights, and that's mostly due to my unsyncronized 4 speed.
And I've hauled a load of well over 3000 pounds of dirt without thinking to myself "I sure wish I had more power".

Personally, I think there is a certain "cachet" to the original 216's. 🙂
Enjoy yours!

Thanks for further input - I don't recall my dad ever wishing he had more power.

As to the 216 - does anyone have any thoughts on prep to use an engine that was rebuilt 30 years ago, but had redline assembly lube re-applied to the rod and crank bearings about 15 years ago?

Well...

I have no direct experience with assembly lube products, but I've read what others have said.

It seems that if an engine has sat for any length of time after assembly, some products will "set up" and can actually starve a bearing for oil at start up.

A pressure luber forcing oil into the main oil gallery while slowly rotating the engine might work to clear the main bearings, BUT, none of that oil would make it's way into the rod bearings due to the dipper system of supply for those.

So...
If it were me, I think I'd pull the pan and clean and re-lube AT LEAST the rod bearings.
Then, if you haven't done the main bearings, I'd pressurize the main oil gallery and rotate the crank while watching for oil oozing past the edges of the bearings.
Don't pressurize TOO high, or you can blow the plug out of the back end of the oil gallery.
About 30 psi should be fine.

Hopefully others with intimate knowledge of and experience with the product you have used will come forward with their knowledge and recommendations.

Good luck!
And try to enjoy getting "intimate" with your great old Chevrolet! 🙂

I have had three engines that I had used assembly lube during assembly. All three had the old lube dry out to essentially glue. I had to take the engines back apart enough to clean out the old lube and replace with engine oil. Other than a little metal staining and locking those engines keeping them from rotating. There were no other problems. As a result I no longer use assembly lube on my engine rebuilds.

A question for you Chipper:

If Matt's engine is not locked up, and can be turned over freely...

Do you think he is safe to start and run it?

Or would there be a risk of gluey assembly lube damaging bearings?


Either way, I think it would be a really good idea to pull the distributor and drive the oil pump with a drill and adapter to prime the oil system and especially to fill the oil troughs under the rods shortly before start-up.

As suggested by Stovblt I would circulate the oil in the engine prior to turning it over at more than 1 rpm. Once there clearly is oil getting to the rockers, etc. it should be safe to try to start it. The assembly lube is not abrasive enough to damage parts and if particles of it break loose should be small enough to not plug passages. Besides it will quickly solubilize with mixing and heat.

Like Chipper says if the engine turns over by hand there shouldnt be any problems. I also agree with Ole's suggestion of removing the distributor and priming the complete oil system with an adapter in the drill.
Tony