VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1936 motor mounts replacement

I need to replace my motor and transmission mounts on my 1936 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan. Looking for some advice as how to proceed. Engine is sagging so much it is rubbing on the tie rod. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

There are motor mount rebuilding services through the Filling Station, or there may be services on line. Look for rubber vulcanizing services.

If the tie rod is rubbing on the pan you may have other issues going on there. On my '36 Master Town Sedan there is probably 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" between the tie rod and the pan. I would think damaged rubber should only take up 3/4" of that.

Further investigation is needed. You don't want to hit a bump in a curve and have the weight of the engine lock the tie rod. Are the load bearings on the king pins in the proper place. How the spindles are mounted might make a difference of 1/2".

I bought a '68 Impala Wagon many years ago. It had a 4 barrel 327, and an unusual cable attachment around each upper control arm shaft to the front of the 202 heads. I thought it might have been to keep the moderately powerful Mighty Mouse engine from flexing too far. Nope, turns out that they had a bad batch of engine mounts that would fail under heavy acceleration letting the engine flop over locking the steering and pulling the throttle to full. Woohoo - what a ride for 8 seconds or so, right? Their recall fix had the dealership bolt those cable pieces on in just a few minutes when the car was in for service.

All of the mounts you need, or aftermarket kits to renew them, are available. Contact me if you need help finding or identifying them.
If you have a floor jack or another way to lift your engine, you should be able to change all of them easily.

Mike
573 864 6539

I had a 1934 master sedan.... and when I got it the front crank pully was resting on the front crossmember... so the engine would not turn over..... I replaced the front engine rubber motor mount, the two side motor mounts and the transmission mount..., I found all of them as NOS parts on Ebay... so look there for your mounts as well....

I do agree that bad mounts will let the engine drop. I am a little surprised that it is so far that the pan is hitting the tie rod.

I agree that you need to replace the mounts. I would also check the tie rod to determine if it is bent. When we got our ‘37 Master coupe I determined that the tie rod was bent upwards about 1 1/2”.

We bought the car from my wife’s uncle. As his aged he had trouble getting down on the floor to make sure that the floor jack was properly positioned on the front axle to lift the car. In one attempt he had the jack back so far that he pushed the tie rod up instead of lifting the car. In another attempt he used the front of the oil pan to lift the car. That created quite a mess with the oil troughs and nozzles for the first 2 cylinders. Fortunately he never drove the car or ran the engine much after that. There was no damage to the rod bearings.

I have the side mounts for 33-36. $30 pair

Thanks for all the input. I have a floor jack. Can you suggest where on the engine I should place the jack to lift the engine without damaging anything.

“Further investigation is needed. You don't want to hit a bump in a curve and have the weight of the engine lock the tie rod. Are the load bearings on the king pins in the proper place. How the spindles are mounted might make a difference of 1/2".”

Please explain. Thanks

I have put a board on the oil pan to spread the load and then raised the engine with a floor jack.

Just be aware there are several VCCA members in the Magnolia TX area with experience on repair and maintenance on Chevrolets. Most are members of the San Jacinto Region located in the Houston area. I live 70 miles south of you but am in the area fairly often.

Hello Jim, I would have to take a closer look at my car to see how it is set up. What I was thinking of is the roller thrust bearings that are concentric with the king pins. Some axles have a bearing that the weight of the car sits on that turns with the spindle. Technically on some of them it can be placed on the top or the bottom. It really should be on the top so the weight of the spindle is pushing up against it. If for some reason a PO placed that on the bottom it would effectively space the spindle up about 1/2" to a position that along with the sagging motor mounts might allow the tie rod to touch the pan.

Like Rusty said it could be bent as well. Or even a combination of all or none of the above. One thing is for sure, it should not even get close to the oil pan.

Thank you for all of your inputs. I will check out the hub bearings to make sure they are installed on top not on the bottom.

Thank you for all the suggestions