Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#487252 11/24/23 07:51 PM
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dave321 Offline OP
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Hi guys, new to the forum and new to these cars..

I'm looking at a 1928 Chevy Imperial 2 door 4 seater. it needs work, I noticed the controls on the steering wheel for throttle and timing are missing. is this a major issue or an easy fix. the motor turns over but that's all it does. the engine is a 4 cylinder..

It's a barn find and had one owner..

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Welcome to VCCA Chatter. Folks will be along shortly who can help you. I don't own a 28 but I believe the model is a National rather than Imperial.

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/2801.htm


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dave321 Offline OP
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Thanks for the update...

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The steering column control levers are available from some of the parts hoarders. I write that because many that have parts don't routinely sell parts. They have them somewhere but they are not sorted or cataloged.

Do you only need the parts on the steering wheel end or also the levers an rods on the steering box end? Taking photos of the place where the missing parts are supposed to be will help people understand what is actually needed.


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dave321 Offline OP
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Thanks for the reply. I went today and looked at the car. I didn't notice the controls missing until I got home and looked at the interior shots. my concern today was the condition of the motor which he replied they tried starting it and nothing fired. the car came from Arizona with one owner and was purchased at an estate sale.

I will transfer the pics I have on my phone to my laptop to post here. I only have two available at the moment and will post the interior pic once I upload to the laptop..hate working on a phone..

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dave321 Offline OP
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Here is a pic showing the steering wheel..hope this helps..

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I will move this to a technical forum.


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From the three photos it look like you are missing all the controls and rods.


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dave321 Offline OP
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Are the rods inside the steering column, starting to sound like a car I don't wish to get involved with..needs a new roof as well..

Edit...Do all the models from 28-29 have the controls on the steering wheel..he has a 1929 sedan that doesn't have controls either?

Last edited by dave321; 11/25/23 12:53 PM.
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There are two tubes with levers attached that go down the center of the steering column. At the bottom is a bracket with adjustable levers and then rods to move the distributor points plate and throttle arm on the carburetor.


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Could this be a major factor in getting the engine started. just trying to determine if the car is worth buying. if the distributor is set correctly the car should start?

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You should be able to get the engine to at least fire if the throttle, choke, and timing are in the correct positions. Keeping the engine running might be more difficult without those controls.

I am assuming that you have a way to get fuel to the carburetor.

Last edited by Rusty 37 Master; 11/25/23 05:11 PM.

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I haven't tried. I went the other day to look at the car. I was told they tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. I seen an inline pump underneath.

Once I seen the controls missing on the steering wheel is when I decided to try and get help. the known issues are the controls, motor not running and the roof needs replaced, doors out of alignment. it appears to me to be too much work as a first time buyer into this community. asking price of $8,000

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I don’ t know your background with these older classic cars nor the factors involved in your purchase decision.

Here are a few guidelines I have learned as I have enjoyed this hobby.
- I have no expectation of recovering whatever amount I spend to buy and rejuvenate/rebuild/restore a vehicle.
- I do not set a deadline for purchasing a vehicle.
- I always have a “shopping list” of candidate vehicles. Whenever I have the opportunity I look at those vehicles whether it is at a show, a “cars & coffee”, or an auction. I follow the major auctions as well as other online auctions like Bring a Trailer and Sullivan Brothers. I also belong to Facebook groups related to those vehicles. That makes me aware of the current range of pricing in the broader market.
- I do not purchase a vehicle that is not the type and configuration I like or want. For example, regardless of condition if it does not have the power train or a color I want, I pass regardless of price.
- I am extremely cautious and very stingy with my money when looking at a non- drivable and especially non- running car. If the car is missing parts I do my research on availability and pricing of those parts.
- I do not purchase the first vehicle I look at unless I am confident that it is a good deal. I may go back and check on that vehicle after I have seen more candidates.

In my case I am not looking for rare high end classic cars like Bugatti’s, Mercedes SSK’s, original Cobra’s or Ferrari’s. Once you start shopping you will learn that there are lots of choices for 1920’s and 1930’s regular vehicles out there for sale.


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dave321 Offline OP
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That's about how I look at this as well. I've been searching for sometime now and quickly realized most of these cars are more north of me. I'm in south Florida. in my searches these two vehicles were the first one's I could go and see vs looking at one being shipped.

Both are not running but have potential but at a cost I'm not really ready for. my vision calls for one that runs and needs work, these need roofs, engine work, parts possibly hard to find. they have very little rust as they were in Arizona for who knows how long. they came from the Keaton family (buster) and were the sole owners. I'm guessing it will take a fair amount of time to get them in running/operating condition. he is willing to come down in price but it appears to be a larger project than I wish to get involved with as a starter..

Not sure if I can find what I'm looking for with a budget of around 10k. I get nervous thinking of purchasing one and having it shipped. I did find some I liked in north Florida, Tampa, Orlando, Tallahassee etc. the fact of not physically looking over them bothers me..

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A VCCA membership would be a great investment for you. You can start connecting with members who know these cars and are very willing to help you find the right one for you and your pocketbook.

One key advantage is that many members will take the time to go look at a car and provide their assessment. There are members in all 50 states.


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dave321 Offline OP
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Thank you for all the info guys..The membership sounds like a solid plan for me. I no longer feel alone in my search or help..

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On the early wood reinforced bodies the condition of the wood is a major consideration. There are sources of wood for many models and years but installation requires some expertise. Many of us have rewooded bodies. It takes some skill and patience but is not akin to rocket science. Sagging doors can be an indicator. However inserting dowels to replace the deteriorated screw hole wood can be all that is necessary.


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If you join the club the club's magazine has a section in the back for vehicles for sale. Most are restored with prices north of your price point but the catch is you'll likely need to put much less money into it to enjoy driving it. For example my 38 is a true barn find that I bought for $2500 (photos below show it as found) but I have well over $30K in the restoration and it's not a concourse restoration.

Here's a listing in the site's vehicles for sale forum. It's over a year old so the vehicle may be sold by now but it has a phone number for you to call.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php...r-sale-barn-find-4500-00.html#Post470180

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Last edited by Tiny; 11/27/23 08:42 AM.

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I have most all of what you are missing . E mail me if needed. bwbugay@aol.com


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