VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 52 Engine

My wife wants to modernize her 40 sedan to an automatic so she can continue to drive it. She has developed an autoimmune disease. I have a 57 powerglide and have the 235 that goes with it. A 52 remanufactured engine has become available but I need to determine if it is a full pressure 235, or a 216? It would be easier to use the 52 engine rather than modifying the 57. Any suggestions?

If the engine is a 1952, it won't be full pressure, regardless of 216 or 235.

What modifications would be necessary for the 57 engine?

Something else to consider is the 57 Powerglide transmission is designed for open driveshaft. I think if you use this transmission, that you will have to replace the rear end on your 40 (and all of the work that would require) and convert it to open driveshaft.

It may be better to find a 53 or 54 Powerglide transmission.

If you could luck out and find someone that is swapping out the powerglide from their 53 or 54, that would be helpful as you could acquire the shifter, shifter and kickdown linkages, mounts, u-joint, etc., rather than having to piecemeal or fabricate.

Are you also going to add power steering and power brakes?

The reason I asked that is because I was in a similar situation with our ‘37 Master coupe. My wife has a treatable autoimmune situation but it does limit her strength. She could never drive the ‘37 because the steering and brakes took so much effort as well as the clutch. We now have a ‘57 car with automatic power steering, and power brakes. She loves it!

Unless you have a personal connection to the 1940 sedan, it might be worth considering a different vehicle. In our case, even though the ‘37 had a family history we realized that she would never be able to drive it unless we did a full “rod & custom” conversion. It was a whole lot cheaper and way less effort to get a more suitable vehicle.

One other item to check is whether the ‘52 engine is from a Powerglide vehicle. That might make things a little easier.

I have no clue if there is room for a Powerglide in the ‘40 sedan. You might have to modify the front floor area.

As noted in drtyler’s post, any Chevy transmission after 1954 uses open driveshaft. I have seen posts in various forums where people discussed making some type of adapter to make the later transmission work with the enclosed driveshaft rear axle. I have never read or heard of anyone actually doing it.

I am not sure what difference it makes with regards to 235 or 216 if the engine is a 1952. It won’t be full pressure and will have babbitt bearings.

Very good points about possible need for power steering and power brakes.

Thanks for the replies. I did not have my reference material down here to help me remember which year they went to a full pressure oiling system, I was thinking '53. The engine is a replacement engine for a '52 and I have not checked the date code.

The '40 was the first old car we bought together, so she considers it her car. It was not a super quality restoration before we got it so we are not modifying an exceptional, or rare car. Yes I was aware that the '57 powerglide is an open driveshaft application. I was anticipating using a rear end out of a '56, or so and changing the front spindles to 5 lug from a '48. On the SW Fall VCCA tour in Williams AZ a fellow member showed me his conversion of the original steering column to electric power steering on his '50 Fleetline. Interesting piece of equipment.

I will probably just get the '57 235 rebuilt with a short shaft water pump conversion to fit the '40. I have an after market adapter kit for the late 235s that allow installation of an ac pump, and power steering if we decide to go that route. As for the linkages a fellow I met about 15 years ago when we first considered doing this put a turbo 350 behind his '52 216 to replace the original powerglide in that car. I bought all the shifting linkage pieces from him and acquired a different column shift position indicator. It sure looks like it will bolt right onto the '40 column.

We have other Chevrolets that will remain original for as long as we own them.

Art

Sounds like an interesting project. Keep us posted.

That's cool, I think you have it worked it pretty well. Good luck!

The linkages for a 52 will be different from 53 and later cars though. If I come across a set, I'll keep you in mind and let you know.

50-52:
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0350.htm

53-54:
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0351.htm

That would be great if you think it would work better than what I have lined out. I am not sure I got the kick down linkage, but since I am not sure what carburetor and manifold I am going to use I may have figured on using an aftermarket cable type.

I am just trying to keep it as simple as possible. We do not need a lot of horsepower, those days are behind us.

The 48 car uses 6 lug wheels.

Be careful about selecting a 53 engine as some were the low pressure babbit motors. Better to stick with a 54 or later
.
A 57 235 engine will drop in, but as prev posts state, the challenge is the power glide. A 54 power glide would bolt up to your closed rear and drive shaft, but in 1955 open driveshafts were used and those transmissions' length is changed. If you could swap out the rear for a 1955 or later open unit, that would work but more $$ and headaches as you're dealing with drive shaft, leaf spring alignment and other issues.

1953 powerglide engines were full pressure engines, 1953 straight stick cars were not full pressure oiling systems, they had dippers on the rods like the older engines did.

. Hi Art, . I can understand you wanting to use parts on hand. If the oil distributor under the exhaust manifold has three 1/4-20 screws, it's a dipper. A cast iron nub is pressure. More details and casting numbers (NOT stamped serial numbers) and physical characteristics at <http://home.znet.com/c1937/Cast.htm>. .
. If you go from torque tube to Hotchkiss and don't change the springs, they will "S" bend if you tromp on it. If you are going to buy an automatic, and convert to Hotchkiss, go with a 700r 4 speed OD. Better mileage! An adapter plate and 54 water pump works better than short shaft. You may have to modify the rear tranny mount if you go from stick to automatic. Several of the newer electric power steering works on 48 volts. .
. Email me if you have more questions and I'll send a bunch of photos.
. . Lou .

Having swapped out the dead 216 in my ‘46 coupe build to a ‘61 model 235 I can tell you that you will need to install an electric fan in front of the radiator, even with the short shaft pump I could not mount a fan blade between the engine and radiator.

Okay, all good information. Thank you.