VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1935 Chevy master deluxe

Good evening everyone I just purchased my first 1935 Chevy master deluxe very beautiful car. Everything has been restored and redone in this car but I just found out that my carburetor is not any good I have two questions, the first question would be is can I switch out this Carter carburetor to a 2,16 Rochester carburetor.

Second question is, has anybody ever had any problems with the car getting between 190 and 200°. Any info any numbers or I can call anybody would be very helpful. Thank you.

Can't answer the first question, but as for the second: I have a 34 Master and I had an overheating/boiling over problem. A friend and I discovered the distributor was causing a problem (advance, I believe). At the same time, I had a radiator fan shroud built for it. I haven't had the problem since and don't know if just the distributor fix would have solved the problem. Something to check???

That sort of temp could be normal depending on the circumstances. Is that the "normal" temp it always runs or is that where it sits after driving highway speeds then slowing down in town? If it's the latter it's probably no big deal. In those circumstances the temp will spike for a while. Make sure you have a 160 thermostat in the car. A 160 will be fully open at ~160. If someone put a 180 in the car it'll always run hot on the gauge.

Thanks I appreciate all the help but if I drive the car at a normal 190 or 200°, will it mess up the engine how will I know when to finally shut it off or if it gets too hot

I’ll run the car for like 10 minutes and idol and it will go up to 180° are 190° within 10 minutes without the car moving..
Everything was rebuilt in this car aluminum heads on the engine I don’t know if the carburetor has anything with it doing getting hot, but I am looking to replace a carburetor just in to figure out what kind of car I can put on this beside the original one..

Does anybody know if I also put 50/50 antifreeze or put pure and a freeze? What’s the best thing for the radiator did not get hot

If the CarterCarb is correct for your car I would pay to have it rebuilt by one of te guys that frequent this site,''

My 1934 Master which had the same cooling syystem as your 1935 normally ran at 160 degrees in summer weather and I had a 160 Deg thermostat in it. On a 90 degree day would hit 180 at highwAy speeds, If I would stop it would climb into the red range which is normal. Also in prades on a hot day would get up there by the end of the prade. You will find that the older cars are very sensitive when it comes to cooing tempertive. I recomend to run a 50/50 amtifreeze mix as it helps to prevent ruat and raises the boiling point of the coolant.
I would suggest that you get an owners manual and shop manual -- reprints are available from www.fillingstatiom.com for a very reasonable cost

Do I read "alluminum headS" as in V8?? If so I dont think the 35 radiator would be capable of cooling many V8's.
Tony

Yes, I wondered about the “aluminum heads” also. There is only one head on a 1935 Chevy engine. I was not aware that anyone made one for that engine.

Just because at some point in time, it was completely rebuilt... does not mean that you are not going to have to completely sort the vehicle out... It may not have been run or used much in years... and you may find that you have to check everything at least once.... Aluminum Head... not on a stock '35 chevy... why not take some detailed photos of your carb, radiator, both sides of the engine etc.... these guys here can be VERY HELPFUL... in getting you new car to run right... but you need to let them get to know it, in detail.... photos would help that process..

I agree with the above posters, timing and just idoling will cause the temp to rise. As long as you're not making steam, you should be fine.

Drain the coolant to see how dirty it is...the '35 engine was prone to running hot, that's why they modified the block to add additional coolant capacity with the '36 block.

Mike B :)

As far as antifreeze, do not go more than 50/50. Antifreeze is just that, anti-freeze, not a coolant, but it also is a rust preventative. If you run 100% antifreeze, your car will overheat. Most people say to use distilled water,(not purified water). Here in central CA, I generally go with 40% antifreeze because I'm not subjected to extreme cold, usually not more than about 28-30 and my cars are in a garage. One more thing you can do is add water-wetter. It reduces the surface tension of the water, allowing it to get closer to the to the block. Red Line makes it and others may too. I put that in all my cars.

I spent many years researching various heat transfer agents and coolants. Glycol based antifreeze reduces the surface tension of water as does soap, detergents and a whole bunch of other chemicals. None of them improve the heat transfer of plain water. Don't believe all the hype that product sellers use to advertise their wares.

Also please understand that coolant temperature is only an indication of the effectiveness of any heat transfer agent or coolant. Metal temperature is a far better indication but very expensive to monitor accurately.