VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Radiator Questions

Hello all, I am considering having my original date coded radiator recored. I have several concerns as this is quite pricy. My concerns come from parking cars at local car shows and watching many cars waiting to park overheat. Now I understand that the extent of the work done to these cars is not known, coolant mix and condition are also an unknown and the temperature of day is variable. However if you were to ask the owner/driver what was done to their car, the answer is most likely it was completely restored. That is fine but brings up the most important of my concerns. If the car was completely restored and is as factory, shouldn't the radiator and cooling system be capable of handling the idling and stop and go waiting to park? I understand that our cars came from a different era, and the demand on them wasn't as it is today, but I have to believe that our cars were operable in traffic. If I go by the owners reply than that would indicate that cars were lined up down many streets waiting to cool when new or as used cars. Also wouldn't the cooling systems benefit from modern coolant technology? The radiator in need of recoring is from a restoration in progress 50 deluxe and I would prefer not to install an aftermarket radiator if not necessary. Any information on the subject is greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve

I just had my ‘51 re-cored. It was $1,100 but holds temperature around the middle of the gauge now. I run 50/50 Prestone/distilled water. My car had sat for decades. The radiator had some leaks, made much worse as the overflow tube was clogged, creating internal pressure.
I found flushing and refilling the whole system (twice) was key.
I have not idled much but when I do the temperature does rise some but I have not overheated.
I’m not a fan of the huge aluminum radiators. You also have to watch fan clearance if you go with an aftermarket radiator.

A lot of the problem comes from owqer experiance. If caught in those conditions place transmissiom in neutral and engine speed at FAST idle to pull coling air through the radiator.

My '46 (original 216 engine) will idle forever and stay right on the thermostat opening temp (180 degrees) no matter how hot the day.
The only time it rises slightly (probably around 185 degrees) is when spooled up to 50 mph for some time on a very warm/hot day.

The radiator looks original and has the original part number on the top tank, but does look like it may have been out and serviced before I got the truck.
I rebuilt the head and at that time cleaned the "sludge" out of the back of the block as best I could.
Then I just filled with a washing soda solution, warmed it up and drained it, filled and flushed with clean water a couple of times, and filled with antifreeze and water.

I've never seen it go above about 185 degrees.

It was not at all uncommon to see several cars on the side of the road with the hoods up when a traffic jam occurred back in the day. Generally speaking, people weren't in such a rush as they are today, and learned (by experience!!) to leave a bit of extra time to complete a trip for you could usually count on a) getting stuck in traffic, b) overheating, c) a flat tire d) a broken exhaust pipe or fan belt e) getting lost.
Gene's suggestion is a good one. If you are in a parade, or a line to get into a parking lot, you'll see the temp gauge climbing, especially on a hot day. Fast idling will usually retard the increasing temperature enough that you won't experience a boil-over.

I put a new US Radiator from National Chevy on my '54, and it cools the same as the original, leaky Harrison that had been re-cored. I paid a local shop to recore, it was almost as much as a new one. Started leaking after a couple years.

While aftermarket, I think the new copper/brass USA made radiators look fine. I would only pay for a recore if a new quality copper/brass unit was not available, OR if I had a show worthy car that needed the GM Harrison.

Thanks to all who replied. I wanted the people with experience driving these cars to point me in the right direction, and that exactly what I received. Steve

The big variable in this discussion is the real extent of the “restoration”.

In many cases there was not enough work done to completely clear the water passages in the block and head. Even with a new or recored radiator any engine will overheat if there are restrictions to coolant flow in the head and block.

If you ask the right questions you will find that there are many degrees or levels of “restoration”.