VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Caburetor RJH08-150S

Hello,

I have to replace the leather and spring of my 1930 carbureter.
I am interested in all advices to do it in the right way.

Thank you

Edmond

Assuming that you do not have the factory Carter metal sleeve to aid in this procedure.

So:

(1) remove the plunger from the pump housing
(2) unscrew the brass plug from the bottom of the plunger
(3) remove the old leather cup and expander spring
(4) install the new leather cup and expander spring
(5) CAREFULLY thread the brass plug into the bottom of the plunger and snug (a 6 foot cheater bar to tighten is not necessary)!
(6) place a few drops of light machine oil on the leather cup, and smear the inside of the pump housing. 3 n 1 oil, sewing machine oil, etc.
(7) cut a strip of light cardboard just a wee bit wider than the width of the leather
(8) wrap the strip around the leather cup, compressing the expander spring, cut the strip lengthwise such that the ends just meet
(9) tape the 2 ends forming a cardboard sleeve
(10) using the cardboard sleeve to keep the leather and spring compressed, press the refurbished plunger into the pump housing.

The above works! If you do this frequently, the next time you order a rebuilding kit, order the factory Carter metal sleeve the correct diameter (there are 4 different diameters) for the carburetor in question.

Jon

I have the sleeves but very carefully use a small flat bladed screwdriver to install the leather. Oil as Jon suggested. Then position the plunger leather at a small angle so about 1/2-3/4 is inside the cylinder. Slowly and carefully push the leather inward with the flat of the screwdriver while moving around it. Take your time and don't force anything. If forced the leather can fold over and not go in properly. I have done so many that I can get it done before I can take the ring out of the drawer and slide it over the leather.

Another way is to take a small amount of masking, duct or similar tape and wrap it tightly backwards (adhesive facing out) over lapping at least 1/2 full turn. Position the lower edge of the tape at the edge of the leather. Position straight over the cylinder and carefully push down on the plunger. You use the tape backwards so the leather will easily slide on the tape.

Chipper - I personally use the same method as you, but like you, have done hundreds. The method I described is, I think, less likely for someone who has not done a lot of these to damage the leather. If you or I damage one, we pull a new one off the shelf (and, knock on wood, I haven't damaged one in decades), but for the individual who just bought a kit, it might mean a new kit.

Jon

Jon,
I fully agree. I used the sleeve for a while. Found I needed to well lube the leather for it to work smoothly. Thought it took too long for the oil to saturate the leather so moved to the screwdriver to get it in place and give time for the oil to better saturate the leather. Since I test run all the carburetors I rebuild much of the oil is transferred to the gasoline during that process.

Since most owner rebuilders or occasional qualified mechanic rebuilders do not have the factory tools, giving them a few alternatives is wise even with the risk of messing up a leather.

Thank you very much for your advices.

When you unscrew the brass plug from the bottom of the plunger, you never get problem ? I am afraid to break the plunger.

Edmond

I have had some customers in past have trouble getting out the brass nut that holds the leather into the plunger. I now put a note in the carb kits to use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat them up which usually does the trick.