So, since I finally got the 30 Roadster running well, it really has a first gear chatter when taking off. I checked the linkage and it's adjusted right where it should be with minimal or no free play. The clutch engages where it should, without any signs of slippage. According to the last owner the engine tranny (and I presume the clutch) were overhauled during the "frame off resto". The owner says he put 5000 on the car since, but it sat for a couple of years with very little use, if any as his health started to decline. My Model A had some chatter as well, but not as bad as this old girl. Could it be from lack of use or is it something else.
My 1931 had the same problem. She sat for many years. After that she was a show car with very little use. In the last three years I put 4K miles on the car, and the clutch works fine now without any repair.
Did the "frame off restoration" include new mounts for the engine and transmission? Bad mounts are a major cause of "clutch chatter". Do a search for that.
Let's just say that over my years of working on these classic and older cars I have learned to expect anything and everything.
Perhaps the must important lesson I have learned is the extreme variability on the definition of the word "restoration". I especially chuckle when someone brags about their unibody car have a "frame-off restoration".
Last edited by Rusty 37 Master; 09/14/2311:33 AM. Reason: spelling
Checked all the mounts. Made sure all were tight and secure. I too have always been skeptical of restoration definitions, but this car truly had a frame off. Many pictures showing just that from the last owner and having looked at 100's of old cars and trucks over the last 50+ years, one can see (without pictures) that this old gal was totally dismantled, all the wood replaced, frame stripped and repainted, etc... And as we say, "A picture is worth a 1000 words".
Which brings me back to my second question above :)
mounts ?? these are metal to metal no rubber bushings etc... rigid mount as we call them. typically 3 that hold the driveline in. 1 on front center of engine, then 2 on transmission bell housing/ rear of engine.
the clutch material should not rust, but the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate certainly can & will. carbon throwout bearing could be dry as well.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
The clutch material is supposed to be wavy so that it will grab smoothly. I wouldn't expect it to be worn flat with only 5000 miles, but that could be worth checking.
mounts ?? these are metal to metal no rubber bushings etc... rigid mount as we call them. typically 3 that hold the driveline in. 1 on front center of engine, then 2 on transmission bell housing/ rear of engine.
the clutch material should not rust, but the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate certainly can & will. carbon throwout bearing could be dry as well.
"carbon throwout bearing could be dry as well.[/quote]" So how does one lubricate a throw-out bearing?
There is an oil cap on most of them. Your service manual would tell you the correct procedure but your bell housing may have an inspection cover near the top under the dash. I am not 100% on the 30 but removing that may give you access to the bearing oiler.
That is a good thing since the parts book shows the same clutch cover as a 29 and they don't have an access cover. The same parts book also describes the clutch release bearing for 29-32 with oiler. Why an oiler if you don't oil it? The oiler maybe an improvement made as they learned and corrected problems.
Here is what one looks like.
Interested to hear from 29-30 owners on how you oil the bearing.
So old72er could take up the toe board and see if there is a hole and oiler tube on his 30. My 29 does not have a hole so I may fix that before the body goes back on.
I am not sure that is the cause of the chatter. You may have been right in your first post in that it will improve with use.
