OK folks, changing out the fluids on the 30 Roadster, more head scratchers. Will fill the tranny with 600 w as directed. However, the small bell housing the speedo cable comes out of looks like it has grease in it and not oil.....as there is a zerk fitting at the top. Removing that and sticking a small stick down the hole, it appears to be grease.
On the rear end differential pumpkin, I removed the fill plug, and as directed removed these two, what I thought were fill and drain plugs from the small housing behind the pumpkin where the drive shaft is connected. Obviously they screw into something inside the housing with the tappered ends. The one was frozen on the screw part when it came out so I'm assuming that is how it should go back in. I'm guessing the sane set up with the other screw should be the same. I backed the nut off a bit so the screw could go in far enough until it seated against something, just to see what these held in place???
By the way, no oil came out either hole and on the pumpkin, sticking my finger in, there was only about an inch or two in the bottom.
Hello old72er, Web site: chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com look for: 1929-32 Chevrolet Master Parts Price List for Six Cylinder Models Rear Axle page 36 see entries on page 39 344084-screw, propeller shaft rear bearing lock 114496-check nut (1/2"-20) Cheers
good info from Harry there, gotta have the manuals to know what you are looking at, all this info in in the Repair Manual :) Owners Manual has basic info, Master Parts Price List has list and diagrams of most of the parts, what they are called and where they go.
those 2 screws you removed need to go back and stay, they hold internals in place !!
here are some diagrams i threw together
Trans 1 ...shows fill/ check port on trans, also notes that the drain is on bottom
Trans 2 ...shows where the drain port is on trans (looking from rear of car towards the front)
rear diff - pumpkin ...shows rear end/ differential "pumpkin" cover(looking from rear of car towards the front) ...fill/ check port, and drain bolt/port (it is a regular bolt holding the cover on, bolt holes go through the housing casting into the open area where gears are)
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Those two screws hold the pinion bearing in place.
Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
When you replace the tapered screws try to be sure that the tapered ring that holds the pinion bearing in place is in its proper location. It has a tendency to move back when more than one screw is removed. A Phillips screwdriver, small punch or solid rod can be inserted and with probing can locate the ring's position.
With grease in the ball housing instead of the heavy or 600 weight oil it is likely that there is a problem with the upper bushing and maybe the U-joint being covered up with the grease. It may be worthwhile to remove the four bolts on the retainer, slide back the ball housing while supporting the torque tube and check the condition of the internals. The Repair Manual will be of help better understanding how to do it.
I had a feeling that's what those two bolts did. I'll make sure (with a probe) that they go back in the ring. How tight do they have to be? Snug I would think.
Again, why would there be a "grease fitting" where there should be a screw plug over the ball housing where grease is and NOT 600 w oil? Unless someone has decided to put grease in there instead of oil and found a grease fitting that threaded perfectly in a fill plugs place, and why would they do that? Perhaps to reduce the chance of an oil overfill getting to the rear end??
If that's the case, do I need to clean out the grease and put the oil back in? I didn't notice any noise or vibration while driving the car, and the old gentleman I got the car from drove the car according to him, 5000 miles since a frame off resto.
Originally there was a 1/8" pipe plug in the ball housing. I assume that was because the correct amount of lube was factory filled and it was not on the periodical service schedule to have more added. Alemite fittings were replaced by Zerk type on assembly lines beginning late 1933 to 1934 period. So when the pipe plug was removed the majority had a Zerk type installed. An interesting aside is that the Alemite "gun" was called a Grease Gun by Chevrolet even though the instruction sheet in the gun in Bold letters stated "DO NOT USE GREASE".
Yes, it is best to remove most of the grease and put 600 weight oil in. The prime reason is the U-joint requires a flowable lube like the steering gear not grease.
