VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Carter w-1 carburetor rebuild

I’ll start with a little backstory. I acquired a 1932 Chevy sedan a year and a half ago. When I got it the car would start but would not accelerate, when you pressed the pedal down it would feel as if it’s stalling out. Cleaned the carb out and rebuilt the carb but still not responding to acceleration. Tried a spare carb that we had with the car and still the same experience. Checked cylinder pressure and that checked out good. Ultimately we laid down some cash for a properly rebuilt and cleaned carb which once it was put on accelerated and worked perfectly.

On to my question. Do any of the experts have any techniques to share on how to properly clean and rebuild a carb? What equipment would I need to get to really clean the jets out…etc? Any specific paints to use? I appreciate any advice.

These links may help:

Carter W-1 rebuild - early


Carter W-1 rebuild - later

Failure to accelerate PROBABLY would be a function of either a clogged pump discharge check valve, or a clogged pump discharge jet.

Often with the W-1, a toaster oven, an acetylene torch and PATIENCE are your best friends.

Once the bowl cover and air horn are removed (heat will damage these parts):

(1) Place the cast iron casting in an ELECTRIC toaster over, and heat as hot as you can.
(2) Remove the casting from the oven, and using the acetylene torch, spot heat the casting in the area of all of the jets and check valves until each area has been cherry red.
(3) Place the casting back in the toaster over (while the oven is hot, and reduce the temperature over 15 minutes or so).
(4) Allow the casting to cool COMPLETELY.
(5) Place the casting in a large zip lock bag.
(6) Place the casting in the bag in your freezer, and leave overnight.
(7) The next morning, remove the bag from the freezer, remove the casting from the bag, and spray all of the jets and check valves with your favorite penetrating oil (I don't like any of them as they all stink). Allow to sit for 4~6 hours.
(8) Start removing parts. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING! If any jets/valves are stuck tightly, repeat instructions 1~8 until everything has been removed.
(9) Clean the casting. An ultrasonic cleaner works best, BUT if you don't have one, a "poor man's imitation ultrasonic" may be used by boiling the casting in a mixture of water and Dawn dishwater soap in a 3 pound Folgers or Old Judge or ??? coffee can. You may need to repeat. This will not clean carbon, only dirt, grease, and oil. If carbon is present, use a spray can of automatic choke cleaner from your FLAPS. THEN clean as above. Once the casting is clean, boil in water to remove the Dawn.
(10) Blow compressed air IN BOTH DIRECTIONS through ALL passages. Pay particular attention to the idle passages. If compressed air cannot be blown in both directions through all passages, it may be necessary to remove some or all of the passage access plugs.

The W-1 is NOT a difficult carburetor, but due to age, corrosion, etc., it does require patience. If I were still restoring carburetors, I would rather tackle a dozen W-1's instead of one Holley 4-barrel!

Jon

Jon

I appreciate the response to ShadeTree. That info you can’t in a manual. The more I thought about it makes sense to use hot than cold methods. It’s amazing the temperature change cast iron can handle.

I’m curious how you clean brass parts and aluminum air horn. After cleaning what’s the process of protecting the brass and aluminum. Do you use a buffer or by hand? What type of products do you use?

Was doing a test on brackets and external pieces. Soaked them in 3:1 oil. Surprisingly the parts looked fresh. Had the gun metal look after wiping excess of. What’s your thoughts on that approach as I have not used them on a working carb?

I appreciate your time guys.

Ian

Ian - first, on the W-1, both the air horn and bowl covers are zinc alloy, not aluminum.

For "first" cleaning, I would use an ultrasonic cleaner, with a solution of Dawn dish washer soap (don't ask for an exact mixture, I just pour it in until it "looks right" ). This will clean dirt, grease, grime, etc. If the carb is excessively dirty, the Dawn will saturate, and another "first" application will be necessary. The next cleaning would be using automatic choke cleaner to remove any carbon build-up. Back to the ultrasonic to remove the residue of the choke cleaner.

Now, into the glass beading machine for finishing cleaning (before I got the ultrasonic, I used the glass beads for the entire process, but the beads quickly got dirty).

Once out of the glass beading machine, it is necessary to blow compressed air through ALL passages and threads. Glass beads will create static electricity, and you can shake the casting upside down until Hollywood is again covered by glaciers ("polite" wording of a classic cliche ) without dislodging all of the glass beads. One more trip in the ultrasonic in plain water to get all of the beads.

The parts are now clean.

Brass and aluminum need no protection.

Zinc alloy castings are sent to a metal laundry company and chromated (the greenish goldish finish).
The cast iron is sent to the same company where it is "Parkerized".
The steel items, brackets, linkage rods, etc. are sent to an electroplater to be electroplated with white zinc.

Upon return of the cast iron, it is painted using 60 percent gloss black engine paint which approximates the "Carter special body paint" in color very well.

The above is probably more than the average enthusiast wishes to do.

VHT makes an excellent epoxy paint. The "aluminum" color approximates the white zinc plating well. Shoot the piece (ALWAYS USE A MASK WHEN SHOOTING EPOXY PAINT), and bake the painted parts in an electric (NEVER GAS) toaster over at 150 for 1 hour.

For the zinc alloy pieces, if one does not wish to have them chromated, leave them natural.

Jon

Jon

Appreciate you correcting me. Based on your steps to a clean a carburetor. Need the right tools for the Job! I like the reference using a toaster oven. I used my sisters oven to bake manifold with VHT. The smell was horrible. Needless to say she got a headache.

When using ultrasonic cleaner. What temperature do you set the cleaner? The first step is to use dawn and water. If dawn can clean an oil soaked bird. I’m a dawn man myself. Remarkable product.

Also, when you are cleaning the zinc alloy and brass. Do the pieces also go through the dawn and water?

When painting the the body of carb. Do you paint the inside of the fuel bowl?

Jon appreciate your time and input.

Ian

Ian - give me a call at 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time).

Jon

Agtek I would do my best to keep all the paint on the outside of the carb as fuel will affect a lot of paints which may cause you more trouble later.
Tony

Will Do. Thanks again for your help
Ian

Tony
Appreciate your advice. Wasn’t sure about painting inside bowl. I’ve read that painting a small section of the top inside was recommended. That didn’t make sense to me. Had same thought you recommended. Appreciate your time and help.

Ian

In the FWIW category, Carter painted the casting inside and outside.

Jon