Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Nov 2021
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Hi -- drove and parked my 1962 Impala, and the generator light glowed at half-brightness even with the ignition off and key removed. I found this wire on the generator (see photo) to be very hot to the touch. Is it most likely a short inside the generator itself? Or a bad voltage regulator?

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1962 Impala 283 5-speed
1970 Chevelle SS 402
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The "cut out" built into the voltage regulator - may have its points stuck together.
The cut out disconnects the generator from the battery when the engine is at idle or not running.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/07/23 11:21 PM.

Gene Schneider
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Backyard Mechanic
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A bad internal connection on the generator that needs to be repaired. You can be glad you found the fault.

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I'm going with what Gene says.

The glowing generator light after shut down says you've got current flowing where there shouldn't be any...
unless your cutout is stuck closed.

A problem internal to the generator won't make the armature wire get hot...
unless the field wire lead is grounded and the generator is charging flat out while the engine is running.

But that wouldn't explain the glowing light...
and your battery would be hot and smell bad.


Ole S Olson
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Thank you all for your suggestions. My battery isn't hot or stinky, and the cells are full of water. I'm guessing the simple step would be to replace my voltage regulator. Looks like they're about $50 at NAPA. And if that doesn't solve it .... I'll have to find an old-school auto electric guy. Amazing that virtually no shops around here will work on a 1962 generator anymore.


1962 Impala 283 5-speed
1970 Chevelle SS 402
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Seems like if you can't plug into it and get a "code", nobody wants to or even can work on it anymore.

Before you buy a new regulator, you could try disconnecting the battery, removing the regulator cover, and dressing the points on the cut-out with a point file.


Ole S Olson
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I agree. Remove the cover and check to see if the points for thr cut out are closed. They should be open when engine is not running or at idle speed.
See shop manual -


Gene Schneider
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My shop manual says "the largest contact point should be cleaned with a spoon or riffler file." I don't have a riffler file, but I have rasps, various files, emery board, sandpaper. If I rub LIGHTLY can one of those be used? And might cleaning alter the gap?


1962 Impala 283 5-speed
1970 Chevelle SS 402
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A riffler file is a small, fine, curved file.
The contact points have a slight convex shape to them, and that's why the book calls for a riffler file.
I don't have one either, but use a regular ignition point file and just rock it around slightly as I dress the points.
Don't try to use any other file but a point file.
And don't use emery board or paper with grit on it.

You should be able to find an ignition point file at any good auto store.
Here for example:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...std0/tf1?q=ignition+point+file&pos=6

Cleaning SHOULDN'T alter the gap much, unless you need to take a LOT off to clean things up.
If that's the case, you will probably need a new regulator anyway, but cleaning alone will get you going for now.

Last edited by Stovblt; 07/12/23 12:49 PM.

Ole S Olson
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If the points ae not stuck together I would not file them.
If there WERE stuck together I woud replace the regulator.


Gene Schneider

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