I've had the recently rebuilt Carter W-1 on the vehicle for 5 months and 150 miles without a problem until recently. Now every time, I try to start the engine the fuel pours out the top of the float cover. I have tried tapping the top of the float cover several times in the attempt to unstick the float assuming that it is stuck without success.
I'm seeking advice for the least intrusive way to free the float without having to totally remove the carburetor. If I was to remove the input fuel line, unbolt the fuel bowl cover, lift cover slightly and bolt it back down might it resolve the problem or am I just wishing?
The float bowl cover can be removed by unlinking the bent rod that connects the lower throttle arm to the coordinator (part that rotates to push down the accelerator pump plunger). It is also best to remove the metering rod held on a peg on the coordinator by a thin wire spring assembly. Then remove the U shaped link to the accelerator plunger. Loosen the fuel line fitting and pull back the line. Finally remove the screws that hold the float bowl cover to the cast iron body. You can then lift off the cover to access the needle and seat. May be necessary to pull lightly on the fuel line to remove from the fitting. Once removed you can turn the cover over to see if the needle will move in and out of the seat. You can also blow on the fuel inlet with the cover inverted to see if the needle is seating.
The float is held in place by a small rod or pin. Remove it and while off shake the float to see if there is any liquid inside. If not then clean the needle and seat with a rag or paper towel wet with carburetor cleaner.
Also clean the arms of the float where they rub against the float pin support of the bowl cover, and the float pin support.
Not uncommon for some sticky residue from evaporated modern fuel to cause an issue at this point.
Also, check the float drop. Make sure that when the float is in the totally down position that the float is at least 1/16 inch above the floor of the bowl. Again, the sticky residue can cause the float to stick to the floor of the bowl if the adjustment will allow it.
Once you get the issue resolved, TRY fuel from a different station. May not help, but it might.
This may not work for a car. I had a similar thing happen to a mower engine. Ran some Lucas fuel system cleaner through it and it has not happened again. Not sure if it was the cleaner or not nut I was at the point were tiring a $5 solution verses my time was worth it and it appears to have worked.
Note I only tried the cleaner because I do not believe it would cause harm, I would not have tried a stop leak in a can solution or anything that could cause additional harm.
I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
I may not be using the correct terminology, but I removed the float cover to find the float empty as it should be but the needle valve seemed to be sticking when I tried to lift the float. After applying a bit of pressure, it seemed to move freely. I reinstalled the top using the same gasket in the carb as the one in my vintage rebuild kit appears to be too small. Maybe old gaskets shrink as the Carter W-1 I'm using is supposed to be a 346S just like the rebuild kit version.
Engine started right up and I took the car for a short spin with no sign of leaking when I returned.
Thanks Again
Terry vcca#58150
I've attached some documentation from the rebuild kit that may be of some use to you if you don't have it already.
Carter used velumoid gasket material, which did shrink with time. This is an issue with trying to use new old stock kits. The good thing about the genuine Carter kits is that they do contain items not found in any other kits.
The brass components (idle jet, main jet, pump check valves, metering rod) will often be corroded, but soaking in vinegar will generally remove the corrosion.
The fuel valve will be either steel/brass or plastic/brass depending on when the kit was produced. Will not comment on these materials in this thread.
The leather accelerator pump MAY be useable. If it seems to be flexible, soak in light machine oil (3 n 1, neetsfoot, sewing machine, etc.) prior to use.
Always check the pump/metering rod operating rod and bracket for wear. If the hole in the bracket is still round, and the end of the rod has no groove, then put the new parts in a safe place.
About the only safeguard one has against the sticking fuel valve is to start the engine more often.
