VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 33 Eagle oil leak and runs hot.

Hi all,
I have a 33 Eagle with a 207cu in. original engine. Recently had the head reworked.
Now I am having trouble getting the valve cover to seal tightly and having oil leaks. With just 2 nuts on top, seems like it is difficult to get sufficient pressure around the perimeter to get a good seal. Tighten too much and just crushes the top of the valve cover.
Has anyone else had this problem, and what's the solution???

Also, The car still runs hot. Is this because of poor air circulation/design? I have a new water pump, recored radiator, and flushed the block when the head was off.
Seems like hot air is trapped against the firewall, and the exhaust manifold exit so close adds to the problem.
Any Ideas on this problem?

One other question. Does anyone use the octane selector? Or just set the timing correctly and forget about it?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Doug.

It sounds like your Radiator is now clean and you flushed out the block & put in a new water pump... But did you make sure the baffle, behind the pump was in place...?? and do you have a functioning 160 degree thermostat installed..?? ....those are a few things that might cause overheating, after all that you have done....
I wrapped my exhaust pipe, under the seat area, with that fabric exhaust wrap insulation that they sell at the auto parts store....
I set my octane selector, on my 1934 master, with the 207 engine at 8..... I was advised that this modern gasoline requires that the selector be set at 8-10 I hope this helps... perhaps more knowledgeable people will advise you...

I have a 34 Master. I flushed the block but later found that debris had accumulated at the rear freeze plug. After the gunk was removed the engine ran cooler. Also I found that some of my over heating was due to the timing being a little off.

I think most everyone has had trouble with leaks at the valve cover. Make sure the sealing surface of the cover is perfectly straight. Over tightening can deform it. I used sealant like Permatex between the clean head and gasket. Since the cover comes off for adjustments I don't put anything between the cover and the gasket.

Dave

Dave’s guidance about the valve cover is right on target. Mine leaked until I spent a lot of time making sure that all the flanges were perpendicular to the valve cover and flat. That is especially crucial at rear where the flange is so short.

I did the opposite of Dave. I used adhesive to attach the gasket to the valve cover. That way I knew it was straight and aligned on the flanges. Either way the key is that you do not want the gasket moving around when you set the valve cover onto the head.

You will probably need to do some work on the mounting holes. I expect that the previous owner just kept tightening the nuts as it kept leaking. After the edges of the cover bottom out on the head the surface that the nuts push on will deform down.

Don’t forget to replace those rubber seals.

On my 38 previous persons had tightened the domed nuts down that far that the studs had broken through. I dont know if it fixed the leak at the time as I havent tried to start it since I acquired the truck.
Tony

Thanks to everyone for your help. I got the valve cover to seal.
Still runs a bit hot though.
Doug.