Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#312417 07/08/14 12:15 PM
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Rivard Offline OP
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I bought my car in boxes. I have been struggling with the engine. Starts good and idles O.K. but when I throttle up it dies. I have the valves good. the carb is cleaned. The distributor is a major question. The body was in bad shape. Bought a new body and installed the guts from the original. I have spark but the spark follows the adjustment rod to the steering shaft. At idle it runs but I can see spark where the rod connects. I have put a paper gasket under the arm at the dist. It seems to have solved the spark issue or has it? Any tuning tips would help a lot. Getting very frustrated at this point. I also have a newer coil with a condenser. Not sure if it is installed right either. Can someone explain how the distributor is supposed to be assembled. And how the coil is to be hooked up. Thanks Paul

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The original coil has a resistance unit mounted on the top. The wire coming from the wiring harness ( in the owners manual says blue wire) is connected to the resistance unit. The other terminal on the coil is the short wire which goes to the distributor. The points in the distributor should ground through the distributor body and to the generator and engine block when the points are closed.


JACK
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After reading the shop manual I read a sentence that said the timing of the spark for the #1 cylinder has the #1 wire in the cap line-up with the notch in the cap. Mine is the #3 cylinder. Do I have the gears off a tooth or maybe more? It still appears that the spark for the #1 cylinder still fires correctly. The rotor is pointing at the spot in the cap where I have the #1 wire pushed into. Could this be the problem of it not having enough power to move the car and it not want to be responsive when I try to give it gas.

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I am still looking for the arm that clamps to the rod on the steering shaft that controls the carb. I am also missing the set-up from the lever to the carb.

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Hi Paul,

The rotors in both of my '28 Chevy 4 cylinder engines are not pointing the way they 'should' be, but both run fine.

FYI, there's a good discussion about electrical timing in this thread:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/290058/

It might help you set up the points and distributor.

Cheers, Dean


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As long as the rotor points directly at one of the contacts on the distributor cap when a cylinder fires it does not matter which one. Most locate # 1 at the tab on the cap when timing a distributor so it is easier to recognize later.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Rivard Offline OP
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Thanks for the help. It will take awhile before I can check the timing. I will let you know how it turned out.

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Rivard Offline OP
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Timed the car and still no better. I got thinking about the intake tube that runs from the exhaust. I don't have one on my system. Would that keep the fuel from being pulled into the intake.

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The preheat tube is very important, especially until the engine warms up. I recommend you keep it installed at all times for better operation.


Agrin devil


RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Rivard Offline OP
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anyone have an extra that I can buy

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Try your local hardware store, muffler shop or Gary Wallace.


Agrin devil


RAY


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http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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I have a used one and a NORS one. I can send you pictures of both (and the flexi tube) before tomorrow and find the total to pay. I think I bought the last ones from Gary, but he will be back from holiday by now.

chevy


Solan G, # 32797

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Rivard Offline OP
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If you can send a picture and the price of just the exhaust part, that would be great. I have the flex line from the carb. Send them to my phone if you can. (989) 450-6026 Thanks Paul

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Sending you the pictures, measurements, etc. by email.

Hope one stove may fit.

chevy


Solan G, # 32797

Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!


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I bought my flex tube at Pep Boys Auto parts in the exhaust section, comes in 3 foot pieces.

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Was this issue ever resolved? I’m having a similar issue with my 23 490.

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Grease Monkey
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What kind of issue are you having? I just fixed my 23-24 engine spark problem. It would idle fine but rev it up and it would pop and die! Turns out the pin in the back that holds the rotor in place loosened and was letting the rotor spin! I thought it was the points but finally realized that the rotor was loose!
Kustomrooster

Last edited by kustomrooster; 04/13/23 08:06 AM.

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