Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#480251 03/30/23 04:26 PM
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Tiny Offline OP
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For the first time since I bought the '53 almost three years ago I personally performed a minor tune up. I pulled the cap, wires, rotor and plugs for inspection and adjustment if necessary. The first thing I noticed is how bad my vision is. I had to use the magnifying glass app on my phone to see the points gap. First inspection showed the points gapped at an estimated .030 with the wear block not even on a lobe yet! I stuck a .020 feeler gauge in the gap and was able to wobble it around. I'm surprised the car started and ran as well as it did. The plugs were gapped correctly and looked good. The cap looked good as did the wires. The rotor was OK but I dressed the contacts with 400 sandpaper to shine them up a bit. With the plugs out I intended to turn the engine using the fan to line up the points for gapping but was unsuccessful getting the engine to turn so had to bump the starter a few times (I use the hand crank on the 38). I dressed and set the points to .020 and double checked after tightening the screw. I put a dab of assembly lube on the lobes. After putting a dab of anti seize on the plug threads I reinstalled them and put everything back together. I just got home from a short shakedown drive and the car runs like a top. I'm really surprised it ran as well as it did with the points gapped so wide.


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Tiny #480255 03/30/23 04:49 PM
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Glad you got it running well!

I also have a problem seeing clearly up close to stuff and I wear progressive prescription glasses.

I found that if I put a pair of cheap reading glasses on my nose (on top of my prescription glasses), everything becomes crystal clear within 10 inches or so.

;-) Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Tiny #480266 03/31/23 03:56 AM
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I am surprised the gap was that wide as points generally close as the wear pad gets worn. I also think .020" is a little wide, I would suggest .018 for a 6 cyl or .016 for a V8 but checking the book specifications would be better advise.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
Tiny #480269 03/31/23 08:05 AM
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Tiny Offline OP
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Since everything on the internet is true, cough-cough, I was going to set them at .016 which is what was widely recommended on line. I have a manual so I decided to do the right thing and check it to verify, what a novel concept, ( laugh ) and it shows .018 - .022 for used points so I split the difference. I'm just gob smacked it ran at all as wide as they were.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/12electrical/12_50.HTM

Last edited by Tiny; 03/31/23 08:06 AM.

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Tiny #480276 03/31/23 01:27 PM
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Depending on the year and using pre 1953 as an example the setting should be .022" for new points and a minumum of .018" for used points AFTER THE BREAKER BAR IS WORN DOWN.
also changing of the point gap will make a change in timing.

Chevrolet shop manual says
1952 and prior .018" to .024" for new and ,015" to .022" for used and 1953 and up .016" to .021" for new and .0125" to o.0175" for used.
It is impossible to set used points if there is what we called a tit on one of the contacts.
The wider the gap the lesser the coil has time to build up a good charge called coil SATURATION.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/31/23 01:47 PM.

Gene Schneider
Tiny #480277 03/31/23 05:51 PM
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very important to lube the cam with a very thin covering of grease, I this is not done the rubbing block will wear down and gap narrow. The "modern" rubbing blocks are of poor quality and tend to wear down faster.


Most models also have a felt oiler under the rotor. This requires oiling as it lubricats the centrifical spark advance parts.
See shop manual.


Gene Schneider

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