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The experts have convinced me that while I have the doors, windows, interior, etc. removed from my 36 Master, I should go ahead and paint. Since it's going to get painted anyway, I've decided to learn a new skill and practice on one of the fenders. I'm going with acrylic lacquer as I understand that it's pretty forgiving and can be sanded out if I mess up. I'm using black (original color). Acrylic lacquer is still readily available here in the Kansas City area, and I bought a quart with some compatible lacquer thinner to see if it's feasible to do this myself. So, whose paint should I use? I've got ready access to a shop that carries PPG. Is this a good paint for the money? Is it penny-wise and pound-foolish to look for anything less expensive? What should I expect to pay? I've seen prices for black solid Duracryl for about $200/gallon on the internet. Any recommendations on a primer? I think the specs call for an epoxy. Finally, the critical question: how much paint should I plan to buy? I have access to a good quality HPLV system, so I assume I won't waste a lot on overspray. However, as I'm new to this, I suspect I'll waste a lot on sanding and applying many coats to correct my inevitable mistakes. I'm excited about doing this myself, but would like to know what I should realistically expect to pay in supplies before I jump in. Thanks!
Randy Nudo
Overland Park, KS

If you have never painted before then going with Acrylic Lacquer is a good choice! It is easy to use and easy to fix when you make a mistake. Regarding the price, I just purchased a gallon of Duracryl DDL 9300 acrylic black lacquer from my PPG dealer (that's great paint by the way) for $116.75. Two hundred dollars for a gallon of black acrylic lacquer is way too high. A gallon of high quality PPG slow lacquer thinner is around $16 to $18.

On the primer, I still use the original stuff, DZL 72 red oxide. It was discontinued about 4 or 5 years ago so I bought a lifetime supply at that time for what I need.

Hey JYD
Lifetime supply...55 gallon drums??<lol>

No..........but close!

What ever paint system you use be sure to get and follow the spec sheet that goes with it and use the same brand of paint primer hardeners ect mixing brands can cause a lot of grief later.
If you are using a modern lacquer primer put the first coat on light and be careful as it can lift old paint a good way to prevent lifting problems is to use a sealer.
I Don't paint on a damp day (exp with black) because of blushing (the paint gets a milky color)
On a positive note the satisfaction of saying "I painted it myself" is worth all the aggravation of learning to paint!!

JYD, Are you getting a special deal? I inquired at the auto paint store that's supplying the lacquer and they want $147 for a gallon of Duracryl DDL 9300 acrylic black lacquer. It's better than $200, though. They don't keep gallons in stock, but can get it in a day.

Tom,
Thanks for the advice about using a compatible primer. I'm taking this down to bare metal, since the existing lacquer (it was repainted with a dark blue metallic some years ago) is very brittle, and some of the places where it's bubbled come off in 3 inch chunks. My paint dealer suggested using an epoxy primer with a slow curing catalyst on the bare metal, and that's what the PPG spec sheet recommends. I'm not really fond of using the epoxy because of the extra precautions that are needed regarding use of a respirator. But it seems to be what most people recommend now. Have you shot lacquer with the HVLP guns (with compressor, not turbine unit)? That's what I plan to do. There's quite a range of prices on these guns. Any recommendations for a beginner?

Disclaimer: I am not a painter. Having said that, a friend of mine, who is very "thrifty" and a pretty good painter uses a Harbor Freight spray gun. He replaces the plastic cup with a metal cup. He has one for sealer, one for primer and a third for color.

jozeppi: Nope, no special deal. I have my invoice, which I just checked again, and the "list" price of the black acrylic lacquer was $145.00. However, my local PPG store (like most other auto parts stores around this area) sells their products at the net price, which is $116.75. Ask your dealer what his net price is, and then go from there.

I prefer a gravity (top loader) paint gun.make sure you use the right tip size (spec sheet again) I use a disposable respirator NOT a dust mask with primers and lacquer. I like DP-80 epoxy primer but it is a bear to sand. I use it first and then use hi- build primer then a sealer . Be careful with lacquer primers as they shrink and can show sand scratches weeks after you paint. I prefer a 2 part primer as it doesn't shrink. also I prefer a 2 part spot putty for the same reason.
PS: I don't paint for a living, just my own projects and this is what works for me :)

All this talk about paint and guns brings up another point, moisture and oil in the air supply ruin paint jobs when everything else is perfect. I think it is a factor you must deal with when using a compressor, I don't know about a turbine.

My paint dealer discouraged me from using a turbine. Apparently, they tend to generate heat at the tip, drying out the paint too fast. I read a review of some of the popular turbines and there's quite a difference among them in how much heat they actually generate. All the values were higher than the specs say. I have a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld HVLP turbine that I use for woodworking, and may just try shooting some lacquer with it on some scrap metal to see how it does. Just curious.
Fortunately, we don't have the humidity in Kansas that I was used to when I lived in Houston. At least not until July or so.

Randy:
Sounds like your paint project is coming along! I found acrylic lacquer difficult to find here in the east but I did an internet search and found some on the Sherwin Williams website. It's called Sher-Lac, part #L10B 1738. The website also has the spec sheet with thinning and air pressure instructions. I purchased it through a local auto parts dealer for about $110. I resprayed two fenders and found it to be a very good match to the RM paint I had used years ago. Overall I was very pleased with the final product...it sprayed nice and sanded/buffed up just fine.
Just a note about using slow thinner. If you have any Bondo or other filler the slow thinner can soften it if it doesn't flash off in time. Adjust the type of thinner to your weather conditions when you paint and you shouldn't have a problem. Good luck, and let us know how you make out!

Thanks. I have yet to find any Bondo (or dents or rust-through for that matter) anywhere on the car. The only parts that are badly pitted are the wheels. Do you have any advice about what I should use to smooth out the pits before applying enamel to the wheels?

Randy:
The pits are no doubt from rust. I had 5 wheels blasted by a local shop for about $100 several years ago, and believe me, it was worth it. You will need to get the rust off before painting.
Pits can be filled, but rather than Bondo filler I suggest something like a Permatex Liquid Metal or you may want to look at the Eastwood (www.eastwood.com) line of products for similar fillers. Both say they are sandable and paintable.
Just a few hints for wheel painting. To avoid chips and dings in the new paint, mount the tires on the wheels first (don't inflate them yet), then mask the tires and paint the wheels. I built a temporary axle (a shaft on bearings, clamped to saw horses) so I could rotate the wheels while painting and have access to both the front and rear of the wheel. If you have the artillery wheels this may not be as critical as it was with my wire wheels.
Good luck with the project!
Dave