VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1923 Superior

Okay so seeking information. I have a 1923 Superior that I bought and I have redone the engine. It was restored and sat dry for 14 years until I purchased it. I've resealed the engine with all new gaskets and surprisingly inside was spotless. So question is any information on oil type for engine and fluid for transmission and rear-end. I'm located in the US. Any help is appreciated!!!!

Hi Matthew

Just 2 things... and both of them for the engine.

First... do NOT use non-detergent oil no matter what anyone tells you.
Use a high quality modern engine oil, but don't get overly concerned about zinc levels.
Anything for modern engines with an SN API rating will be fine.

Second... keep it light... especially if it is a freshly overhauled engine.
Recirculating splash oiling systems like you have don't lubricate well with thick oils.

5W-20 is p[erfect for break-in. Do not run engine at a low idle for any length os time, a fast idle, say 1500 RPM gets the oil up to the rings and cylinders better.

The Filling Station has #600 oil for tras, and differential.

If the engine has been sitting for that long I would have removed the bearing caps and put some fresh oil on them. The lubrication at assembly will most likely dried out and wont lubricate until the fresh oil gets to it before possible damage is done.

As Gene suggested 5w-20 of any modern oil is a good idea.

Tony

Thank you kindly!

We pulled the engine last week and redid all the seals and gaskets. Going back into the car this weekend with all fresh fluids.

I bought it last year after it had sat dry for 14 years. I pulled the spark plugs and the oil cap and I filled the engine full of Marvel's Mystery Oil and it has been sitting in there for 3 months and I would go out three or four times a week and turn the hand crank and rotate the engine several times I imagine everything should have lubrication in it wouldn't you think?

Also any suggestions on gas? Do I need to add lead additives?

NO ENGINE REQUIRES LEADED GAS AND IN 1923 NO GAS CONCONTAINED LEAD. LlEAD WAS USED TO RAISE THE OCTANE AND THE LEAD MADE THE GAS BURN SLOWER.
USE THE LOWEST OCTANE YOU CAN FIND AND IF IT DOES NOT CONTAIN ETHANOL IT IS A PLUS. YOUR ENGINE WAS DESIGNED TO RUN ON 50 OCTANE GAS.

Gas additives are not necessary but some 2 cylcle oil can be added to the gas to help lhe rings,

MARVEL MYSTERY OIL HAS NO OR VERY LITTLE LUBRICATING ABILITIES SO DO NOT ADD ANY TO THE OIL. THINK OF IT AS BEING A NICE SMELLING KEROSENE.

I won't. I just used it to soak the engine for a few months because it was seized after sitting dry for 14 years. We have drained everything as I said in a previous post and re sealed all gaskets so everything going in will be fresh and pure

Gene, on a regular basis, and at what ratio?

For break-in 2 ounces per gallon.....after that one ounce per gallon.
The oil in the gas will also slow gas evaporation.

Thank you for all the information. We did get the engine put in this last weekend all new gaskets and new oil we have not started it yet I am going to rewire it this weekend as some of the wires were not connected so now I have to post a question to anybody with any knowledge. I did buy the original 1923 repair manual and it is a reprint but I managed to find an original with a copyright of 1923 that I will use to set out with the vehicle when I take it to shows. In the repair manual it shows several different models it however does not show a superior b. It does include all the wiring diagrams I do know that this is a six volt system however in the repair manual some of them are showing as a two wire system meaning ground and negative and some are showing just a positive system where all the grounds are grounded to the frame so my question is any knowledge? Does anybody know how this should actually be done?

We have fresh oil in it. It won't be started for several weeks. Meanwhile I am hand cranking it several times each day to hopefully let that oil work in all the places it needs to before we ever attempt a start.

Also a side note. The Marvel's was used only to help with the rust if any and to help it free up as it would not turn at all when I bought it due to sitting dry for 14 years. It has been cleaned out and not used for lubrication but only to help free the engine. I have 5w20 in it and I think once I get it started I'll idle it for about an hour then drain it and replace with fresh. I may do this several times to make sure it's clean as well as doing the same with the radiator.

With a dipper engine it needs to be a FAST idle otherwise it will not get the lubrication it needs.

Hi Matthew

If you have been cranking it several times each day,
you probably should take the spark plugs out and put a little of your 5W-20 oil in each cylinder again.

Then stop cranking.
Cranking without actually running just scrapes all the oil off the cylinder walls and cam lobes without throwing any back on.
Just be sure the dipper troughs are full of oil before you actually start the engine and you'll be fine. 🙂

Hi again

Forgot to say you can find this wiring diagram:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevywiring/pdf/23-26superior.pdf

here:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevywiring/index.htm

Also, heed Steve's advice!!
Keep your revs up during break in!