I am replacing the leaf springs on my 1930 car - 4 doors sedan. While the rear axle is dismounted, I would like to replace the 2 gaskets as they are leaking. For the rear one, no problem, I remove the rear cover and I can put it back with a new gasket. For the other I am not sure how to proceed. Is there someone who could help me ?
Hello Edmond, Suggest that you buy a copy of "Chevrolet Repair Manual 1929-30 Car/Truck Shop Manual" Parts/Item # DG-117, from 'The Filling Station', or wherever you might find an offering of this manual. To get a look at what your rear end parts look like, take a look online at: 'chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com' Go down to: 'Latest Additions!' select: 1929-1932 Chevrolet Master Parts Price List for Six Cylinder Models select: Rear Axle page 36 Look at diagrams of rear axle housing and gears - pages 36 and 37. The manual and diagrams should provide to you a good understanding for your project.
Hello Edmond, Just so we may understand what we are talking about and to know which component is which, we need to review their names. These are how I believe them to be called: Rear differential: The center gear assembly. Rear differential housing: The housing assembly that encloses rear differential and axles. Rear axle: The shafts from center gear assembly out to rear wheels. Torque tube or torque shaft: Housing from rear of transmission to rear differential. Drive line: The drive shaft inside the torque tube housing. Some people refer to anything having to do with issues concerning the rear drive system as: problems with the REAR END, so which components within the system are giving you difficulty in disassembling? NOTE: Without a shop manual to advise you, others here having knowledge should be able to help.
Thank you for the precisions, as I am French speaking they are very useful for me. I need to replace the gasket between the rear differential housing and the torque tube or torque shaft. I remove the 10 nuts but I can't disassemble them to put the new gasket. Image attached.
Hello Edmond, Thanks Edmond, it's good to know that we call the parts by the same name so that we can be of help. m006840 knows that the two axles must be pulled out of the differential gear assembly to allow the gear assembly to be removed from the differential housing. If the two axles are not backed out, the differential is locked in place and cannot be removed. Now, I do not know of any other restrictions to keep the differential gear assembly from separating from the differential housing. That is why the shop manual is needed to reveal and uncover any secrets that are unaware of. Also, all these years since 1930, the bond between the gear assembly and the housing may be very strong.
Hello Edmond, Trying to visualize how your 1930 4-door is positioned. With the rear springs removed, I would think that you have the rear of the cars frame supported on stands. If the torque tube and drive line are still connected to the transmission, then, they and the front of the differential should also be supported and held stationary. So, that leaves the differential HOUSING floating in air and free to separate from the differential gear assembly if the axles are removed. Now, how to separate the housing from gear assembly? I think that I would clean the mating area and mounting studs thoroughly. Look that there are no hidden lock washers on the studs. Spray and brush penetrating oil over entire area, studs and stud holes also, over and over again and again. Give time for oil to do it's work. Ok, how do you get leverage to pry the housing loose? I would think that the leverage would be out at the area near the wheels. Wood blocks attached to housing to be hit by sledge hammer? Alternating hits applied to the outer housing areas should 'WALK' the housing rearwards and separate the mating surfaces. Reinstalling the nuts to be flush with the end of the studs should allow you to carefully hammer tap to loosen the bond within the stud holes. Look for gaps appearing between mating surfaces to apply more penetrating oil and to allow a putty knife to help unseal the bond. The BRAKE SHAFTS may need to be removed. This is not the only way to do things, your situation may be different.
I disassembled all the rear of the transmission from the gearbox and it is now next to the car. The rear differential housing and the torque tube or torque shaft can be separated a little but not more. See attached pics.
Hello Edmond, Thank you for the photos so now we see how you are working out in the open and not under the car. Those emergency brake shafts cannot remain attached to both the differential and the housing/brake backing plate. One end of the brake shaft wants to stay with the differential while the other end wants to stay with the housing. Also you have not told us that you have removed both axles. You won't separate the differential from the housing with any axles still in place. With these parts removed, it looks like you could hoist/hang the torque shaft from the ceiling/rafter/beam/tree limb and let gravity help you separate the housing.
I am now working on the front leaf springs. I hope to get the shop / repair manual before to work to the rear axle again but perhaps I will come back to you.
The Filling Station has issue to send me the shop / repair manual in Europa. Is somebody here who has that manual for 1930 cars would be kind enough to scan it and send it to me by mail or WeTransfer ?
Hello Stovblt and Hello Edmond, Warsaw: Poland Warzee: Belgium Edmond mentioned that he speaks French. Edmond, can you tell us if you have disconnected the brake shafts from the differential gear assembly? Edmond, can you tell us if you have pulled both left and right axle shafts out of the differential gear assembly?
Please excuse my ignorance/stupidity. :-) I should have actually looked up how Warsaw is said in Polish rather than assuming.
Why would TFS have an issue with shipping to Belgium? Strange. At any rate, the vendor I linked to above seems like a good source for a manual, and shipping isn't any more than other sources are likely to be.
Hello Edmond, There may be confusion or maybe a language issue between you and 'The Filling Station'. On TFS website, within their section on 'Shipping and Returns' is this statement: "Overseas orders will be shipped by U.S. Mail, United Parcel Service, BAX Global or another air freight company. All overseas orders must be pre-paid in U.S. funds. VISA, MasterCard or Discover are preferred for out of country orders." I'm just saying not to give up on a company that offers so many parts for 1930 Chevys that ship all over the world, but you can't get a shop manual from them. Try sending TFS an email asking for guidance on how they operate. They should respond to your email, most likely in English.
Also looks like you might have to source out the "slack adjusters" as well. It looks to me that the one closest to the camera has the end broken off. There is a place in Portland OR that I think ended up with 4 1930 rear axles from a friends estate.
