Hi all, I need to replace the carbon throw out bearing in my 36 master coup and I am in need of some direction in doing this. Will I need to drop the rear end and move it back / how do I remove the stick shift /and most of all does anyone have a throw out bearing for sale as $120 is a bit more than I want to spend for one at the filling station.
Why do you want to replace the T.O, bearing? Is it making noise? Have you tried lubricating it?
If required you should be able to find an original carbon type bearing for less money. There is nothing wrong with a carbon type bearing.
It is not necessary to "drop the rear end" , It is necessary to split the U joint, drop the front of the torque tube "enclosed drive shaft", and remove the transmission.
As you can see in the pics there is no carbon left and no more adjustment so I get a constant rattle when driving. Good to know about the rear end. Would you know if the U joint on the 36 has rivets or bolts? Does the shifter come out of the trany or does it have to stay in.
The present adjustment could be from a worn disc or pressure plate also. Shift lever does not need to be removed The Master U jount is bolted - Standard riveted. On my '34 I did as much unbolting as possible by removing the floor boads ....not sure if that is possible on a 1936 Would suggest replacing the U joint while apart.
Thanks for the direction. Not in a huge rush to do the job as it is still drivable but will need to it before the heat returns here in AZ also there doesn't seem to be any T.O. bearings on eBay and other sites so may have to get it from the Filling Station. I will be taking it to it's first car show here in Ahwatukee and maybe others so it will probably be after the beginning of 2023 I will do the repair.
I agree with Gene, Oil it. Do that no matter what if you are going to keep driving. I doubt it's bad, because I think I can still see one of the wear indicator grooves in your picture. If the grooves are still there, it probably isn't the bearing's fault. There is probably an oil cup up on top that you can get to through a cover on top of the bellhousing when the toe boards are out. The oil in the throw out bearing's reservoir is supposed to soak through the carbon. The oil cup is a bit hard to reach, you'll need some king of a long spout. I have seen some replacements with a zerk instead of an oil cup, and I don't understand what that is about but it is probably also for oil because grease would not soak through the carbon.
The grooves look like this. Bearing in the picture is 36 Pontiac, but it is almost identical in design to the 36 Chevrolet Master.
If you do have to pull the transmission, it would make it easier by removing the shift lever by unscrewing the cap at the base of the lever. Also, place your jack stands under the rear frame and not under the axle. That allows the axle to drop down and give you a little bit more of room between the driveshaft and transmission. Do you have the factory repair manual?
Thanks for the tip's. As I am new to working on old cars I thought because there is no adjustment left and the T.O. has so much room between it and the throw out plate that it must need to be replaced. I have the repair manual and will read up on this. After the show on the 12th I will pull up floor to find access to T.O. and oil it to see if it makes a difference. Will a T.O. bearing form a 36 Buick work on a 36 Chevy as there is one on eBay for $50. not $130 from Filling Station.
Also have a custom made in calif. car cover for the 36 Master coupe. for $350. oo I had a 36 for 42 years did a frame off restoration myself. Stile have several new old stock parts for sale
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