VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION General Discussions 1948 fleetmaster seized brakes

Hello,
New to this forum. Just acquired a 1948 chevy fleetmaster convertible. We are trying to get it out of an old garage, but the brakes are seized and she won’t roll. Opened the brake lines to let any pressure off, took the wheels off and beat on the drums with a small sledge, and still froze. Sprayed WD 40 everywhere I can get to and don’t seem to be making progress. Any help is appreciated.

Welcome to the NO. 1 site for information on older Chevys. I am not too familiar with 1948s but have had that problem several times. Surely the problem is rusting in the drums. Try to back off the shoes by rotating the adjustment wheels. Hopefully that will retract the shoes enough to be able to rotate the wheels.

An alternate is to use floor jacks or jack up and wheel dollies if concrete floor (or boards) to roll them on.

That is frustrating and not easy to get them loose. Maybe get yourself a 3 to 4 foot long bar (or longer), put the bar over one lug and under the opposite lug on the other side. Find something to protect the threads on the lugs. Start working the drum one direction then the other. If a heat source is avail, heat the drum to expand it while working it back & forth. Don't get too hot as that just might make the shoes to expand against the drum. Be careful with the heat around any brake fluid. Once you get it to turn maybe you can then pry on it by inserting something between the drum lip and backing plate. Be careful not to bend the backing plate. More use of the small sledge may be needed to loosen the rust too. GOOD LUCK

Dick

One additional tidbit. Standard WD40 is not a penetrant. It's intended to displace water. Use PB Blaster or something similar.

PS:- Keep us posted on the progress of this project


Dick

I agree the WD40 is not a penetrating oil. I won’t get into the debate about the best one. PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil are the ones I know,

This situation sure sounds familiar to a thread a few months ago. I remember that Charlie suggested an approach that could work.

The idea is to remove the bolts that hold the brake cylinder to the backing plate. Then you can pull the drum and brakes away from the backing plate. You also have to grind or cut the heads off of the pins that hold the shoe anchor springs.

If you don’t care about the drums, you can cut them around the circumference outside of the axle flange. I believe you can buy new drums.

The above advice is sound.

If you can turn the wheel cylinders (WC) to release any aid they are giving to the stuck shoes to drums. Looking to the rear of the car turn the forward WC counterclockwise to loosen the from cylinder adjustment. Looking toward the front of the car turn the reward WC counterclockwise also.

Get two stout flat-tie screwdrivers and insert between backing plate and the drum. Use a heavy enough hammer that the drum know you mean business but not so heavy that you bust the drum. For now, at least. Be patient.

Keep working around the drum and tapping until they start to loosen. It will take what time it needs or such time that you get mad and just bust the d--m things.

Another solution is to get yourself a whole rear end with a3:74(?) or 3:55 gear ratio and you'll have made an excellent swap from the old 4:11. Best I recall either one can be has from a 1950 and up to 54 power glide or 1953-54 straight drive.

Good luck with it.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: The 47-48 convertibles were all-around nice looking cars. Not a as much as a 41 but still... I hope you enjoy it.