VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood spraying paint

I had thinned a Eastwood paint (chassie black) with hardware store laquer thinner and preceeded to paint and as I shoot the paint "hairs"were produced as the paint sprayed .I've had this happen before with a clear coat and good quality reducer???When I contacted Eastwood they did not have a definate answer for my problem so I though I'd ask my experienced freinds?????chef-

Chef-Chevy

It's hard to give a definite answer because there are so many potential causes. The chemicals in the paint you sprayed may not be compatible with the old finish, or the undercoat was wrong, or you mixed your paint incorrectly. Too much paint, applying additional coats without proper drying time, the wrong thinner or reducer...the list goes on. There could also be some contamination somewhere, either in the paint itself, or on the parts painted. A very common mistake is to not properly clean the surface to be painted.

What is the base formula of the paint you used? Is the surface that you are painting primed? Filled? With what? Sanded? What grit?

Eastwood says that their Chassis Black is ready to spray, but if more thinning is necessary it should be thinned with Zylol or Zylene.

Speedline,the"HAIR" was coming out of the gun.The piece to be painted was never a concern because the hair was being produced before even hitting the piece.Here is what Eastwood said:first thought too thick,must be the consistancy of milk(I felt it was alittle too thin)?To fast a laquer thinner combined with a high ambient temperature?I use a hardware store thinner and the temp. was below 65 deg.?chef-

When paint is too thick it will usually "spit" droplets. Hairs?? Hmm!
Are you spraying with a turbine gun? That would boost the paint temperature at the nozzle. If you are using a compressor-type gun, too high an air pressure would cause the paint to dry too soon at the nozzle. Is your nozzle clean? An obstruction may cause what you explain.

Hardware store lacquer thinner is not the same as a reducer, and I have no idea what the dry time is for what you are using. Did you tell Eastwood that you were using that? They told me on the phone 1/2 hour ago that they recommended Zylol or Zylene as a thinner. I am thinking that that might be the problem. The kind of lacquer thinner that you are using is not meant to be used with newer automotive finishes, but who knows what is in Eastwood's Chassis Black.

Speeline,I think you were right on with your thoughts,I had lowered the pressure during the painting it helped a bit,but I think it was the thinner..the can said """use lacquer thinner or zylene" I guess the zylene or zylol would have been the way to go...I with try that,thanks...chef-

There is a big difference in the evaporation rate between zylene (actual chemical name Xylene) and lacquer thinner. The rapid evaporation of the lacquer thinner causes the paint to string (make hairs) particularly with high air flow rates (read pressure) and higher temps. The hardware store thinner has even faster evaporation rates than most even lower quality automotive thinners. I think that the xylene or mix of xylene and good lacquer thinner will solve your problem.

The first time I tried spraying auto type paint I had the same problem and found it to be incompatable thinners (reducer). When I used the correct thinners within 1/2 hour on the same air settings all went fine. I was lucky a painter tradesman arrived to inform me what I had done wrong.

This is good to know, I will follow Chip's advise, not what is on the can. I would hate to have to re-sand and re-paint. Thanks again.

To all you first time painters out there who haven't yet picked up a spray gun:

My advise is to choose a reputable paint system (PPG, Dupont, etc.), stick with it from the frame up, and follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. Do not mix and match reducers and thinners, and play chemist with materials that can, in the least, really screw up your paint job, and in the worst case, kill you! All major paint systems will supply a paint for any specialized use, and a product information sheet will be available to walk you through the application. A successful paint job is dependent on a delicate balance of outside air temperature, compressor air temperature, humidity, air pressure, reducer proportion and compatibility, air to paint proportion, elimination of oil and water from the air...and that's before the paint even hits the car. If you are using a paint product without first reading the product information sheet, you are asking for trouble. If the only information about the product is a few sentences on the can, you are using the wrong product.


Gator: If you don't even follow the instructions on the can...well... :rolleyes:

speedline,

great advice...I remember in my younger hot rod days, I couldn't always afford the right reducers...I quickly learned that this was penny wise & pound foolish...your vehicle's finish is the most visible & vulnerable, and one of the more difficult, items to replace...I'd always recommend using the best paint system one can afford, applied correctly...if you do it right, you only have to do it once...

epi

If You are going to use any spray equipment the first thing you better do Is get a GOOD respirator or you may kill yourself, then the wife will sell that "old junk car "

Speedline

You have given everyone words to live by. Especially when it comes to using a reputable paint brand. Many people, who would have become excellent painters, simply gave up because they used less than adequate materials and became frustrated to the point of giving up. Also, everyone, I agree with Speedline when it comes to mixing paint and thinners. Go by the instructions and leave the "mad scientist" work to someone else. The way I see it, if you can't pronounce the ingredients then don't mix them unless the instructions call for it.

I have had similar problems when spraying with acrylic lacquer and found the cause to be having the spray gun too far away from the workpiece. try reducing the distance and see what happens.

Good luck.

Speedline, you have misread what I said and what I replied to. The post said that the directions said either (read the 5th post down) could be used and Chip recommended one of the 2 choices from the directions over the other one (6th post down). Since either (both) was recommended by the maker, I said that I would follow Chips' advice on which one to use, which is still following the directions.

I like to get feedback from people I trust on how to use products or what products to use, etc..

Isn't this why you and others are giving advice to the rest of us? This is one of the main reasons for this forum in the first place. I believe that experience (mine or yours) is one of our best teachers.

Gator-

I came to the conclusion that you were disregarding the directions because of your statement:

Chef-Chevy said that the Eastwood can stated, "use lacquer thinner or xylene". It did not recommended the mixing of xylene and lacquer thinner together.

My point was:

Using a "backyard" Eastwood product that gives 2 sentences of directions on the side of the can is a waste of time. Disregarding those directions, and guessing on thinners and amounts is a less intelligent way to waste time. My post was intended to steer others who are new to painting away from that "a pinch of this and a dash of that" attitude.

You are right...experience is a good teacher...but not all experience is good experience. :(

One of our club members found even when a brand name system is used there are different components that are not compatiable, he was clear coating a base coat, clear coat job on a 1956 4 door hardtop Belair and after a few drying hours found many tiny bubbles in the clear coat, they chased it down to the clear coat, It was one used to spot paint panels and it was different than the clear coat he should have used even tho the counter clerk was familar with the system.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I will follow Chip's advise, not what is on the can.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exactly I will not follow the directions of using either, the maker seems to be saying the 2 choices will perform the same way. No one said mix the 2. ??? I will use the one that was reconmended by Chip (and the maker). Read post #6 for my reasons. :eek: :eek:

P.S. if you want to make personal comments about me please use the 'message link' that is what it is for, thank you.

Gator-

Read Chip's advise again:
That sounds like mixing the two to me.

It doesn't matter to me who's advise you take.

MrMack-
There are many componants that are not compatible with others within the same paint system. That is why it is important to read the product information sheet supplied with the product. It lists all compatible and incompatible surfaces and topcoats related to the product.

Your example reinforces my point: trust only the product information sheet for the correct application information.