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Joined: Jul 2020
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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If I was to consider putting a 216 from a 1947 chevy into the 1934 Master sedan..... would the engine bolt to the 207 bellhousing and be able to use the fly wheel, pressure plate, clutch and throughout bearing...??? and would there be a lot of fabricating of motor mounts etc....

.... and right now there is also, a 1936 chevy 206 engine for sale that is running well, for $500 on Marketplace... Will the 1936 207 engine need to come from a Master or would it have the same 80 HP even if it came from a 1936 standard.....?? and It would bolt right up as though it belonged there.... Correct...??

I Love my 1934 Master town sedan... I just want to get her running... and I am going to remove and clean out the gas tank, flush the radiator, to see how it flows... and check the flow of water, through block,........ and drop the pan and clean the oil pump intake... and then check the carb... and order gaskets for pan, valve cover. fuel pump, carb, and water pump... to start a through inspection, cleaning.. to discover what 'She' needs to get running again...... Please answer my questions about the engines.... Thanks, Sunny

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Last edited by WildernessTruck; 06/21/22 09:11 AM.

1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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Sunny,
The 216 engine will not bolt to your '34, 207, clutch housing. It is possible that the '34 transmission would bolt to the 216 clutch housing, but I can't say for sure. It would not be a "bolt in" proposition.
My experience starts with 1935, but I think the '34 engine has some side mounts which neither the '36 nor '47 engines would be able to use. Categorically, the '36 would be an easier swap. I don't know what other mounts were used for the '34 Master.
There '36 Master and Standard used the same engine with maybe some insignificant difference in the intake/exhaust manifold.
I am in total agreement with your plans for reviving your original engine. Perhaps it will go well and there will be no need to consider other options.
Your car is way cool. Good luck with it. Let us know what you decide to do.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
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Thanks for your support Mike.... When I look at the exterior condition of the engine compartment... I see overwhelming cost.... all the wiring is in poor condition or broken.. the coil is disconnected from the electrolock cable... there is no key for the ignition switch.. and so I see new wiring harness($550) new coil & ignition switch ($100)..... then fuel pump rebuild, carb rebuild, cleaning tank, radiator, oil pan. oil pump.... it goes on and on... into thousands of dollars, Just to hear the engine run.. to see what condition it is in....??? so it makes me think about buying an engine that is running and then just dealing with the wiring and cooling and fuel supply systems... then comes brakes, steering and suspension...

So... Do you know of a very simple way that I can hook a 6 volt battery to a 6 volt coil and starter.. to crank the engine over while misting gas into the carb to even see it will fire... but then if there is a stuck valve.. I could bend a push rod... so I still would need to remove valve cover tap on valve stems with rubber hammer to make sure they move... this gets very complicated very quickly.. thus my thoughts of putting in a running or rebuilt 207 engine.... to eliminate ..... some of the work.... because I know the fuel pump diaphragm will need to be replaced... and oil pump intake cleaned... and water jackets in head & block rodded and cleaned of rust deposits... Do you see what I mean about.... the advantages of getting an already good running engine... to focus my time & money into other areas that need attention.... ??

advice is welcome ..... I am working with $8K to get this up and running/driving & useable... not restored.. just functional....


1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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Oil Can Mechanic
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It won't cost much to pull the valve covers and pan to see what your engine looks like. You will still need wiring, battery, pump rebuilds, cleaning & Etc. so I still think you are getting ahead of yourself in your thinking. If your engine is worthless after inspection you can always find another. You can crank the engine by hand if you have or can get a crank.

Last edited by J Franklin; 06/21/22 12:04 PM.

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I agree that a lot of the tasks on your list are needed even if you have a "new" engine".

I also encourage you to spend some time assessing your current engine before you determine you should search for another one.

A key point to remember is that any engine for sale is "running well". Or at least it did the last time it ran!


Rusty

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I have been doing this for a long time so my view of getting the original engine running is probably less intimidating. As a 50(+) year hoarder of all things automotive, I have a nurse tank, coils, wires, tune-up stuff, carburetors and a 6 volt battery at my fingertips.
IF your original engine is good, it is your quickest route to a driving car. Aside from finding a running '34 engine, the unknown hoops you will jump through to change to the '36 or '47 engine will amount to considerable delay.
Here is my advice, it's free and guaranteed to be worth the price.
Pull the valve cover and check for stuck valves. I have not found this to be a frequent problem on older Chevys. If you are careful, the gasket will survive in good enough condition for further testing.
Drain the oil and replace with new (cheapest you can find) 20w or less. Allow a few days for the potentially gloppy oil to drain.
Hot wire your coil for a test or get your hands on any 6 volt coil that is known to be good and wire it up. File/sand the points.
With a properly installed 6 volt battery and some gas to pour in the carb, you are ready to see if you can get a sputter. If you have some car buddies or know someone who likes old tractors, they might have some of this stuff to loan. You might get a volunteer as well.
I have some old stock plug wires that are brittle, but good enough for this purpose. I will donate them to the cause.
If you buy a new cap, rotor, condenser, points, wires, I think all those same parts will work for any 6 cylinder Chevy into the mid 50s. Good Luck.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks Mike..... I just ordered from Ebay... a valve cover & oil pan gasket... I already have a NOS distributor cap, rotor condenser and points... I will be getting a 6 vt coil and battery..... I haven't pulled the plugs yet... I will buy a new set of plugs soon... I haven't looked closely at the plug wires yet... or plugs... I will get the thin oil and some ATF to spray down the cylinder walls.. to let it sit that way for a week or so... what plugs would you advise ..?? Champion J12 or Autolite AT10 or ACR 45...?

I have gone back to page 176 of this 1933-36 chatter forum... and copied all posts on a '34 master... mostly Chevy Gene , Chipper and yourself..... wanting to learn all I can about the details of this "34 master... it's problems & It's cures.... This engine is covered with about 1/2" of dust glued together with oil.... First I have been scraping the big stuff off with an old wood chisel, then a wire brush... and soon with a solvent and finer brushes & rags... trying to find bare metal.... The gas tank sounds empty.. but will pull it off soon for a good look inside... The radiator was drained of antifreeze... back in the 70's when parked.... I know that I will need to check it out for water flow.. but not yet.... first get it to fire and look inside... Thank you for the advice....

I love to look at the car... I am smitten... by it's shape.... I love the way it looks... and the reason I waited to find a '34 Master... is for the better ride with the Dubonnet suspension.... You see we live very remotely up against the Gila wilderness area in southern New Mexico.... the road from our place to the nearest town (Silver City) is 18 miles of dirt & rock road... it takes 45 minutes to drive the 18 miles into town once a week... I have had model A pickups, a '30 Franklin sedan and a '29 dodge sedan... and two 1983 toyota 4X4 pickups.... all with the solid front axels and leaf springs .... what a rough ride..!!! and I read reports about the better ride, when the Dubonnet units were working as they should.... And just towing the '34 Master in here.. I could see that it will ride a lot smoother than any of my previous 'rides'....

That is the reason.. I want to hire someone who has a machine shop to rebuild the Dubonnets.... with bronze bushings & and a modern lip seal.. instead of cork seals ... because of the RIDE... No matter what running gear, I end up with in this car.... I for sure want that front suspension..... So if you know of anybody that has rebuilt them... and might be willing to rebuild mine... for say $1,000..... I would like to take them off and get that part of the process started... while I sort out this original running gear.. to see what will work.... and what I can afford to fix or replace.... but one thing for sure I want that front suspension working like new.... Today I ordered a NOS king pin kit... for a '34 master with knee action..... Thank you for your interest & your help... I look forward to my involvement with my 'fellow' Chevy lovers here on the '33-36 chat...... Loving my Life, Sunny

Photos are of an Oak- bodied.... Bus/RV/Camper that I Built from a 1928 Chevy one ton truck...... we traveled and lived in it for several year.. it had a 4.3L carbureted V6 Chevy engine, 5 speed, rack &pinion.... FUN.... it cruised safely at 70 mph on the interstate.....

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Last edited by WildernessTruck; 06/21/22 11:53 PM.

1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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There are some people who can rebuild you front suspension. White Post Restorations might be one of them. There should be others. Ask a specific question here about that and you should get some good advice.
My '35 Chevy is a Standard model and my "36 is a truck so no Knee Action in my fleet. Cool House Car!!

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring

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