VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937 Chevrolet Master Deluxe Business Coupe Servicing

Hello all,

A year ago this month I was working on completing a purchase with an elderly friend regarding his 1937 Chevrolet business coupe master deluxe. His health took a turn for the worst before we could finalize the deal. His son became power of attorney, things became further obscure for quite some time and I almost lost the car and purchase at one point despite putting money down on the car initially a year ago. Details came to light several weeks ago and I was able to finish my purchase and switch over the title and ownership to myself. I recently picked up the car and wanted to share that journey for those interested, via my YouTube channel:

Video 1:

Video 2:

Video 3:



Pictures attached of the car on the trailer and back to my house. It was a moment I had been waiting for for quite a while.

I wanted to create a follow along topic for those interested and wanted to provide a good resource for other 1937 Chevrolet owners. I am new with Chevrolet although have always had a fascination with the 1936 and 1937 model year, great styling! Many questions I will be asking along the way as well to anyone with pre-war Chevrolet knowledge.

I will continue to update this topic. I had a new member post about a year ago and just updated it as well.

Thank you and looking forward to sharing my 1937 Chevrolet journey. There are a few items to tackle before the car is 100 percent road worthy and that is what we will be discussing along the way.

That's Great looking car! Have fun!
The fuel filter back by the tank is a great location. Sometimes 2 filters can cause some issues with fuel supply as the pumps are low pressure but for a temporary setup you have the right idea. The car sure seems to run good! It sounds great!!!

When it comes to the water pump first determine what pump it has, It would be extreemly rare to find a 1937 with the original water pump and the Chevrolet casting number will be on the body of the pmp....there were many different brands of water pumps made for a 1937...............if it were mine I would hunt for a new pump . While the pump is off I would go to great lengths in flushing the block and radiator core as usually both are plugged with rust.

canadianti,

Thank you for your reply. I will move to one fuel filter after the gas tank. Thanks for the comments!

Thank you for this information! I will further look into the water pump. No leaks since I have moved the car from it's original resting place. I will soon service the water pump as well as service the radiator. I have driven the car around the block several times since acquiring, no leaking coolant and the thermostat seems to be working holding at 180 degrees after driving for 5 to 10 min around block.

All,

I have been digging deeper. The first item I need to tackle is the fuel system. I currently have make shift lines to start and move the car. Time to replace and service back to a stock factory set up. I have previously purchased reproduction pre-bent steel fuel lines for a 1937-1940 business coupe off of the Chev's of the 40's website. This is how they had it listed. I made specific it was for a 1937 business coupe, there was a selection on the website. I will be installing these if they are indeed correct, will provide a picture when I am in the garage next time. Also have a genuine new rebuilt AC fuel pump with glass bowl on top. The carb has been rebuilt by specialist Dean Echols and is a 1941 Carter W-1. The carb may need a little adjustment.

I wish there was a diagram showing the fuel system layout on the frame and how everything would look from the factory. All of my literature which includes the original shop manual does not show a complete diagram. Would anyone happen to have a diagram?

Newest video below:

Starting on the fuel system, I completed draining of the tank so I can access the sending unit and replace what appears to be make shift tank straps. I recently purchase an original set of straps which also includes original T bolts. I removed the incorrect year fuel pump and installed a 1937 correct pump in its place as seen in the pictures. The arm off the outside of the pump is actuated by a cam lobe on the cam shaft. I turned the engine over to a point of least resistance and installed both rebuilt genuine AC pump and gasket, secured by two bolts to the block. Fuel lines have arrived, although contemplating whether to use compress fittings or flare fittings. Thoughts?

I have decided to go with compression fittings and just about have all the parts needed to complete the set up. With the new fuel pump installed and serviced carb already installed I merely need to position the steel reproduction lines and fit with compression fittings and couplings. I still need to service the sending unit as well as make any final carb adjustments once everything is back together.

I have test fit the new fuel line between pump and carb, fits well!

As my objective is to do light servicing at this time for a few upcoming car shows, I decided to tackle the radiator hoses as part of the overall service to get the car on the road again. The hose set on the car is quite corroded and they look worn out. Went ahead and purchased a new set via Chev's of the 40's.

Original specs of the radiator hoses for 1937 passenger cars:

Upper hose 1 1/4 ID 5 5/8 length

Lower (two pieces plus metal elbow) Upper 1 1/2 ID 2 3/4 length Lower 1 1/2 ID 5 inches long

Attached are the old hoses removed from the car.

While servicing smaller items on the car I wanted to perform a compression test on the engine to see just how healthy it is. As stated before the car received what appears to be a frame off restoration back in the early 1990's. I would imagine the engine was rebuilt at that time.

Newest video:



I think we have a winner, manual calls for a reading between 90 psi and 112 psi. I received 100 psi across the board! This is good news as all cylinders were the same. I think it is safe to assume no issues with the cylinder walls, pistons, or rings. I will eventually remove the valve cover and look closer within that area as the head gasket is leaking once the engine gets up to temp driving around the block several times before I garaged it a few weeks ago.

Original spark plugs were K-11. Those are no longer obtainable (I would love to find an original set though). As a replacement I am using R-45 AC Delco. Upon taking out the previous plugs, they have soot on them. The car has never been on a long trip so partially understandable as to why they are sooty. The previous plugs weren't gapped!! After the compression test I installed a brand new set of R-45's and gapped all of them to manual spec's .040 gap. Pictures of the old plug attached.

It is common to find black sooty spark plugs on an engine that has not been driven at road speeds for a long time. ust driving it will "clean up" the plugs.

The new fuel pipe looks good but I would put a support from the rhight hand thermostat housing bolt or water pump bolt and also from the left top thermostat bolt. as the engine vibrates in operation these supports will reduce the likely hood of fatiguing and fracturing the pipe.
Tony

Thank you both for your responses. Tony you bring up a great point, will do and thank you for mentioning this.