I have a 1937 Chevrolet Master Deluxe Bussiness Coupe with enclosed knee action system. As this is not a straight axle front end, where would the proper jacking points be to lift the car with a floor jack? In place of the solid axle is a hollow metal support that goes from wheel to wheel.
Wanting to know proper jacking points and where to put floor stands without damaging anything.
Pictures attached of what I have as well as parts diagram showing the hollow metal support the knee action parts go with on the front axle system.
Thanks
Jonathan W. Ketron 1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe
The factory jack is a bumper jack with slots and a set screw that grabs onto the front or rear bumper from the top and bottom. The frame is very substantial on these cars so stands or a bottle jack could be used anywhere on the frame with a piece of wood to prevent scrapes.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
The jack that was supplied by the factory for removing one wheel is attached the the bumper bracket where the brackets are attached to the frame. A floor jack is placed uder the front center of the cross member to get both wheels off of the ground. When front wheels are hanging down with no weight do not be suprised if fluid begans to leak from the knee.
Place a piece of wood (2x4 or so) to widen area taking the force from the floor jack' lift cup to crossmember. Then settle it down on suitable jack stands supporting the frame or some other suitable point(s).
Maybe I am missing something here but to me that crossmember seems to have some serious rust problems in the centre. Am I correct? If so I wouldn’t put a floor Jack under there fire sure.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
I doubt if the cross member would br rusty as the engine oil leaks would have prevented that. In 1934 the same cross menmber was used and the factory instructions were to place the screw type jack under the cross member whch is very heaVy and strong as it supported the knees way out at the ends. No wood should be used as it could cause the a jack to slip out..
On looking at the crossmember, which I didn't look at before posting my thoughts, I would agree that the saddle of the jack would be just fine for lifting the car.
I use a piece of wood all the time on my 41s. Lessens the distance and so will lift the car higher. I never have trouble with the car about to slip off because the jack is on smooth enough concrete with rollers.
My way is safe enough for me because I'm not so stupid as not to notice or observe what the car is doing when being jacked up. If the crossmember is painted the bare jack saddle will surely scratch it. One of mine is while the other is not.
I regret advising something that might be unsafe. Accordingly, I withdraw my comment about using a piece of wood between the jack's saddle and the frame or crossmember. We can't always assume what folks will do or fail to do when it comes to safety. Your point is well taken. And, thanks for pointing it out.
The cross member could very well be rusty and not visible from the outside. The front cross member on my 38 needed to be replaced because the leaking oil combined with dirt to plug any escape for water. It wasn't visible until disassembly for the restoration and the two bolts (visible in the OP's photos) holding the core support twisted off showing they'd rusted to only 1/8" cross section inside the cross member. Once we got everything off we discovered the cross member metal had rusted to paper thin. We fabricated a new cross member. The frame rails should be safe for jacking and jack stand location.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
Your 1938 with leaf springs has a very different cross member than a knee-action car. If the Master Deluxe cross member is weak the front end would colllaspe due to the knees being way out on the ends, a foot beyond the side rails of the frame, If it would be rusty (and I never head of one being rusted out) and would crush with the use of a jack it would save your life as it would be better than colasping on the road and causing an accident.The cross member was of box design with very large drain holes at the lowest center point.
So when I look at the photos, there is a separation of the metal at bottom centre. There appears to be debris sticking out of it. Moving over to the right there appears to be a hole with ragged edges and through the hole you can see the back wall of the cross member.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Thank you all for the great replies. Great points were made and I will look closer at the cross member to see if there is any rust or corrosion. Will be back with pictures Sunday!
Thanks
Jonathan W. Ketron 1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe
Here are more photo's of the area that has been discussed. Aside from slight surface rust and cobwebs, I don't see any metal issues. I suppose someone had previously lifted the car with a floor jack right near the center of the hollow beam brace that connects each wheel as you can see wear marks. Is it ok to lift at this point as well?
Thanks
Jonathan W. Ketron 1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe