VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 Chevrolet Electrolock

Need some help generating spark. With the key in the on position what voltage should be at the electrolock nut in the distributor? I have a new coil, points, condenser, cap and rotor. I did have the electrolock overhauled including a new wire. New battery, fully charged, including new 00 wires. any help would be appreciated.

Unless I misunderstand your question I would expect that there should always be a 6 volt reading between that terminal and a good ground when the ignition switch is on.

I cannot remember if the 1931 Electrlok is a design that the lock cylinder has to “pop out” to complete the circuit after the key is turned.

It depends on the state of the braker contacts.
If the braker contacts are open, it is 6 volt, like on the ignition coil (both + and -)
If the braker contacts are closed, it is 0 volt (like on the ignition coil - )
Mihaly

Hi Rusty,
Yes, the electrolok does have a pop out cylinder and when it is in the out position it does allow current to the coil + side. I will do more investigating today with TiredOil's suggestions.

Doing some investigating, I removed the electrolok from the distributor. With the ignition in the on position (and the button out), There is no continuity between the outside of the electrolok and the screw that connects with the points. Conversely, when the ignition is in the off position (button in) there is continuity between the outside of the electrolok and the screw that connects with the points. Is this the correct operation of the ignition switch?

The quick answer to your question is likely yes.

The 1930-1933 electrolock has three terminal screws. The two closest to the dash board are labeled "BAT" and "COIL". They are connected to a wire from the ammeter "BAT" and the positive post of the coil "COIL". The other connects to the center wire down the armored cable to the stud on the distributor end. A wire from the negative post on the coil connects to that terminal. When the cylinder is pushed in the two "BAT" and "COIL" will be open (no current path to the coil). The other is grounded. When the cylinder pops out the "BAT" and "COIL" are electrically connected and the other is no longer grounded.

YES

electrolock GROUNDS out the points when in the OFF position

one of the lugs should have continuity with the screw, as that is where the COIL connects and sends the POWER to the distributor to FIRE the PLUGS :)

Thanks to everyone for your comments. I now have spark (happy days in 1931 chevy land). I believe I had a short connecting the points??? All the above helped me understand how the electrolok works and how to test and diagnose my problem. Not sure if this will help anyone, to make the installation of the nut at the points easier and not having to lower the distributor plate, I took a 8-32 nut and drilled it out and taped it with a 10-28 thread. It will give you just a little more elbow room when installing the nut. Thanks again.