Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 750
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
I am installing the wood in my 32 4 Dr. Special and have some questions. I have installed the entire "A" Pillar assembly (front roof rail to metal header, "A" pillars and lower windshield crossbar, sills, kick-ups, "B" pillars, "C" pillars, 1/4 pillars, rear end assembly and rear window belt assembly. I've been taking measurement to ensure position is correct. I have also installed the roof assembly. I have checked for square and may have an issue. I measured (on both sides) from the edge of the metal header to the inside edge of the top of the belt assembly and have the same figure. I also did an "X" measurement (Pass. front to drivers rear and drivers front to pass rear and come up with a 1/2" difference which I believe means it is not square. I should add that the body is hanging on a wooden frame and NOT mounted to the car frame. I'm Thinking I should mount the body to the frame and soft bolt it down (not tighten the nuts). Would that be the next step and then double check square?
Where do I go from here? Any help is appreciated.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
Thanks for sharing the details of your results. It is more difficult to argue if there is data.

I completely agree that checking the body on the actual frame and rolling chassis is the way to go. Note that I stated frame on a rolling chassis. There will be differences between a frame on jack stands and when it is on springs on axles.

The other point is that I think you are much closer to square than you might realize. It does not take much movement of one corner to make one diagonal 1/4” shorter and the other 1/4” longer. I think your are doing very well given all the variables in a wooden body vehicle.

I suggest that when you do set the body on the frame make sure you include whatever insulating or mounting pads you will use. I would consider having extra material to use as shims to get things square.


Rusty

VCCA #44680
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 750
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
I do have a rolling chassis and all pads and webbing are installed as well as the splash aprons and the rear fuel tank apron,

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 750
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
I really appreciate your input. There are 2 bolt holes in the rear apron (towards the front, both are on the frame rails) I assume They get a short very low profile bolt and it seems that the bolt(s) must be installed before the body and the fender welt are installed. Would that be correct?

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 6
That's correct.... I used carriage bolts. It's sort of a strange arrangement, because you can't remove the rear apron without slightly lifting the rear of the body from the frame.

All the Best,

Chip


"It's wise to choose a SIX"
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 750
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
Thanks Chip. I am making (what I feel ) is good progress (although it HAS been 14 years, 7 of which I was on a 6 day, 12 hour shift). I will finish up everything on the frame and hopefully put the body on the frame by next week.


Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5