VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1941 Information Needed

I'm in the stages of trying to "fine tune" my 41 Cabriolet for the Anniversary meet. I need some help. (I know, I know.)

Her are some questions about stuff I need to know:

a. Battery. What was the battery's case embossed? Delco or Chevrolet.

b. Any good source for the period correct battery? (looks and voltage, etc)?

c. My spinner steering wheel's spinner mechanism is rough feeling and rather stiff. It seems like the bearings inside it are rusty and rough. Can unit of be taken apart and serviced (new BBs or whatever is in there). Does anyone have good one one they would bee willing to sell or swap with some boot? (I think the standard SD steering wheel looks better in the car but the Spinner one IS an option and all. You know.)

d. I have seen the diagram showing the height above the housing the steering shaft is supposed to be. Inch and a half or something like that. I can't find it now. Anyone know the answer to that? Adjusting my horn to where it doesn't blow inadvertently is starting to pee me off, is annoying plus embarrassing. Having no horn or one not hooked up is even worse. It shouldn't be that hard. Any hints?

e. Does anyone make the ball (handle) that goes on the end of the spotlight?

f. Any suggestions on the best wheel cylinder replacements? I'm getting tired of rebuilding the d--m things and would just as soon bite the bullet and order new ones.

g. Any thoughts on installing an under-seat heater and then just the defroster unit below the dash. Seems that would be a cleaner look but haven't had a 41 with one installed for a long time (Once had a Town Sedan with one.) I already have a couple of under-seat units and might as well use one of them on the coupe. Any problems with keeping the hoses from showing from a side view of the car? It is my understanding from Gene that the under-seat heaters were not installed on cabriolets owing to the frame and all. Accordingly, I'm not considering even trying to put one in the cabriolet. Getting a refurbished Super Deluxe one to go in it.

h. On cars equipped with the 5-band radios were the antennas longer for proper reception? What was the length of any correct antennas.

I. Best source of correct hoses (radiator and heater/defroster units?

As to my dilemma concerning the scrappers and fender skirts, I think that neither does anything to enhance the looks of the car. From a looks standpoint, I think the fender skirts are a slight negative regarding overall looks of the car. Only the accessory quest (phenomena) would influence my decision to install them. Mine are original and in perfect condition but they do nothing for me or, in my opinion, the car. I'll just hang on to them and the next owner can decide for him/herself. Any thoughts on this little nagging matter would be appreciated. Who knows my mind mage be changed/swayed.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: At the price of gas, I now think about whether I really need to go anyplace or not. Used to be I just went without giving it much thought, if any. Not now. Anyone else having second thoughts about the price of gas and your past use of it?

BTW2. Sorry this post is so long but you may not be going anywhere anyway and need something to do. Am I swell guy or what?

The battery had CHEVROLET name and letters were not painted.

No one will check/drive the car to note the spinner wheel problems.

Have your present wheel cyliders sleved (stainless) for longer life.

Length of antena is of the owners choice for best reception.

Yes, you are a swell guy! Glad to hear from you and your adventures with your ‘41.

I can’t answer many of your questions (at least correctly) but will offer a few ideas.

Like you I finally had to bite the bullet and replace the wheel cylinders in my ‘37. I kept trying to save then because they were the originals. My alternatives were to get those sleeved (lots of $) or replace. I found NOS Delco cylinders from VCCA members and eBay. I did install new Dorman kits in them after just a light pass with a hone. They are working fine after 2 years.

My friend with the ‘49 3100 bought the Centric brand master and wheel cylinders from Rock Auto for his truck. They have been on the truck at least 5 years with no issues.

It has been quite a while since I bought GM labeled reproduction radiator hoses for my ‘37. I got them from Chev of the 40’s.

Based on what I have seen and read the heater hoses were just standard 5/8” hose. They main thing is that they were black in that time period.

With respect to gas prices I think it is a conspiracy thing to make us drink and not drive. I figure that the price of a gallon of beer or wine will soon be less than a gallon of gas. So it is cheaper to stay at home and drink.

Hi Charlie

You don't say your spotlight is a Unity, but...
Assuming it is, I bought 1 of these for the spotlight on my truck:

https://www.amazon.com/Unity-U-6707...ight+parts&qid=1647443900&sr=8-8

Near as I could tell it looks exactly like the original.

Ole, Rusty and Gene,

Are the battery caps painted yellow and does anyone reproduce the battery with the Chevrolet letters on it?

The spotlight is GM and as far as I can find out it is the correct one. I'll get the number off the top and pass it along.

The trouble with the wheel cylinders is that unless you pump the brakes often they pistons will stick and the rubbers will leak. I don't know why that is but it happens. Do the Bendix brales, as used on the 51 and up, stick and leak just as bad as the old Hucks?
one thing I like and would like to add.

Any of you know anything that may be helpful to me, let me know. I'll appreciate it. Will too!

Thanks,

Charlie

The battery caps were black.
All wheel cylinders will rust and stick after a number of years. The newer Bendix brakes have a rubber boot on the ends which helps and these are not possible with the Huck brakes due to the adjusters on the ends of the cylinders.
What I did on my '39 was pack siicone grease behind the adjusters to prevent moisture from entering.
After several years i sold the car to a friend and he passed away a fewyears ago and I do not know who bought the '39 but I will bet the cylinders are still OK.
Generally you can get at least 10 years out of the original set up.
Silicone fluid may help as it will not absorb the fliud that passes by the wheel cylinder cups which is normal.

I will not be meeting you at the meet as I have too many problems in my old age

Gene,

Your not being able to make the meet is downright disappointing. Is too! Maybe you'll feel better and be able to make it by July/August.

I was counting on somehow sitting at your feet and open my ears and eyes and absorb a portion of all the many things you know abut the old Chevrolets, especially\y the 1941.

At the Indianapolis meet way back I remember Bob Wingate held a seminar on 1941s. There were about 20 of us there and it was well received by all who attended. I haven't been able or have had sufficient reason to attend any anniversary meets since then. By the time of the meet I'll be 88 and doubt I'll be able to make another one.

Now, to me, the meet has much less mental pull for me to attend.

You will be sorely missed. Will too!

Best wishes to you,

Charlie

BTW: Dang! and double Dang and shucks!

BTW2: You don't realize how we "out here in radio land" admire and appreciate your seemingly unlimited wisdom/knowledge about old Chevrolets and gracious willingness to share it. You represent a "one in a lifetime" type experience for me and many others in the club, as well. May God bless you.

I am not familiar with the 41 but I will comment on the adjustment of the steering shaft outer casing and the horn operation on my 38. I had the outer tube or housing off to install a new bushing. When I reinstalled it I discovered the vertical placement of the tube was critical to the horn operating properly. So I just had to adjust it until it working properly.

As to the battery, Gene confirms the picture in the owner's manual.http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyowner/41om28.htm

As to the horn, it seems to me that the problem is not necessarily the height adjustment. That is if it works correctly when you press the horn ring but then it sound inadvertently when you are turning or just steering down the road then something else is amiss. My guess is a worn spot in the wire in the column or the bearing the wire connects to is not seated correctly or defective.

As to the "looks" of some of the parts you have. If you don't think they add to the looks, don't use.

That's my $0.02!!

My horn first acted up at 6:30 am when I was turning onto the road to attend a car show. I was pretty frazzled trying to get that shut off. Normally I would have just opened the battery isolator but I didn’t even think of that. My problem was caused by a short in the bushing assembly.

Re the horn. I ordered a new bushing. My friends who worked on the care in my absence, said that they had to beat on the current bearing some and may have damaged it. Yep! I have the new bearing like I said and we will try to get the dang thing working properly this coming wednesday. Weird how a it only does the beeping when turning the wheel.

I have decided to go against my better judgement and install the spinner steering wheel. If the horn gets to working right, I may keep it on but. Like I said, I'll be installing the dang thing only because it's an accessory. Owing to the amount of work my body work friend put into getting the original fender skirts in first class order with the paint on them just right and the original chrome and spacer below the stone guard on hand, it seems a shame to not put them on. Another case of going with the flow instead of better personal judgement.

Got a rebuilt super deluxe heater in the mail yesterday. Perfect except it has replacement knobs like goes on a bureau, chest of drawers or something instead of the wide plastic one that came on this style heater. Oh, well.

Still got to get the antenna replaced because the current one doesn't have a red ball on the tip. Got to mount the red-head flashlight, back-up light (painted it the same color as body, i.e. Kingston Gray) and spot light (probably needs to be took apart and re-chromed for show.) Oh, yeah, keep forgetting to send off the original locking gas cap. More and more $$$s. It's always something.

Still haven't mounted the new tires and tubes. Although the old ones look good and have hardly any wear on the treads, they will not balance except for adding so many lead weights that it gets hard to find a place to put them near enough to the needed location on the rim. They (tires) came on the car and must have been seconds or something. They're good for a statically displayed show car but not one that will be driven.

Thanks to everyone for the excellent "on point" information and advice I've received. I appreciate it. Do too!

Best,

Charlie

I got my new bushing from Chevs of the 40s. The inner part was nylon and the opening a little too snug. So when it got warm it would bind and stick a bit. I had to ream it out with a Dremel.

Old216,

I ordered mine from off eBay. It is still in the GM box which has the right group and part numbers. It should be okay.

Thanks,

Charlie

"OCD" They make a pill for that!

The most common cause for that horn problem is the wire running through the column.

Charlie...... Been reading this post about your '41 Chev. I have seen many post from you and they are great for the most part. If you put the fender skirts on your '41 you might as well put a Fulton Sunvisor on too (I know you love those). Sounds like you will have a nice car with all the accessories. Don't mess it up. Your fellow '41 Chevrolet owner. JIM

Hi Charlie. Re using your old tires. I only balance mine to 80% on the balancing machine. Saves damaging paint on rim when altering position of weights. Since we travel slow this setting is fine. I run old tires and only replace them when cracks get bad.