Hi Everybody,Just wondering,what would indicate that a throw out bearing is worn,damaged or broken ? Is it something that is very common that they go south? I have seen in the past that they are made of several different materials,is one preferred over another and is it something a rookie would be able to replace ?? I have no clue if mine is bad or not,just trying to get as much done that needs doing before nice weather gets here! Thanks to all! Jay
Replacing the throw-out bearing itself is pretty simple - after you have removed the transmission.
Chevy adopted a rolling element throw-out bearing on 1938. The prior design was a flat face bearing that the clutch arms contacted. The illustrations in the Master Parts List show those designs very nicely.
The 2 most obvious signs of problems are noise when you push the clutch to the floor or the clutch does not engage/dis-engage correctly.
Your owner’s manual will indicate if there is any regular service required for the throw-out bearing. Some of the flat-face designs included a way to lubricate them.
Oh Boy,well I don't think mine is bad,no noise and clutch seems to be engaging/disengaging ok...Hope it stays that way cause I don't think I am ready to tackle removing a tranny just yet !! Still doing baby steps !!LOL Thank you Rusty
What wears the bearing most is idling in gear with the clutch engaged. Get in the habit of popping the car into neutral and letting the clutch out when at a stop light.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
Check in the Master Parts. I’m not sure what year car you are have.
You also have to be careful because there are a few really smart VCCA members who have updated older cars to a rolling element bearing.
Even if you have a rolling element bearing it is a good practice to put the car in neutral at a stop light. That increases the life of the throw-out bearing and reduces the thrust on the crank shaft.
Thanks Rusty,It is a 1931 AE Independence Coach. I nearly always do as you recommend with leaving car in neutral,unless only stopping for a few seconds.
Mihaly's post reinforces an excellent point. You need access to reference material in order to properly maintain and repair these classic vehicles.
At a minimum you should have these documents. - Owner's manual - Shop manual - Master Parts list that is maybe 2 years newer than your vehicle. For example, for your 1931 you should look for a 1926-1933 Master Parts List. It will have the most accurate information for your vehicle as well as listings to show what parts from 1932 and 1933 will fit your vehicle.
Other great to have literature. - Service bulletins for 1930 and 1931. You need at least the last few months of 1930 because those service bulletins present information about the "new" 1931 vehicles. As another example Mihaly's picture is from a service bulletin. - Later year Master Parts List. The concern is that if you get too many years ahead the listings will start to drop parts for your car. For example, the 1928-54 Master Parts List will not have near as many 1931 parts as the 1933 book has. Chevy deleted service arts after so many years and if there was minimal demand. - Body Manual
I assume that you are already using this resource.
Obviously this forum and the members are here to help. The limitation is that we cannot even begin to present the volume of information in these documents.
You guys are the bomb! Unfortunatly Rusty,not only don't I use this resource,I was not aware of its existence until you enlightened me today and for that I thank you !! I will be using it now I assure you !! Jay
Jay, there is a cover on the bottom of the bellhousing. You can easily remove it, and You can check what type of bearing You have. And You can check its condition too. The old style carbon throw out holders with a bolt & clamp bracket. The new one is (on the picture in my previous post) nice and smooth, and lasts long, but You have to oil it at least once a year. Or maybe You have a rolling element bearing. Mihaly
As you can read in the service bulletin, there will be a cover in the toe board that gives access to allow you to oil the newer style flat face throw out bearing. Then there will be an access cover in the top of the flywheel housing.
If you have that style bearing be careful and do not overfill it. I use a pump oil can to fill the reservoir in the one on my ‘37. Just fill it once to about the top. There have been a few cases when someone has filled it and a few days later will check and fill it again. The oil soaks through the bearing so the level will drop pretty quickly especially if it has been a while since it was oiled. After the first fill if you add more the extra oil seeps out and can damage the clutch disc.
The 1934 Chevrolet repair manual states the oil cup should be refilled when the throwout bearing begins to squeak. I imagine that applies to other years that use the same type throwout bearing.
Good day Fellas,So,I removed the toe board and I see a flat plate,3 1/2 " x 4 1/2" which is held in place by a flat spring.I popped that off to see inside. On the drivers side,there is a oily bunch of what appears to be some sort of felt material that is fairly well disintegrated.I can only assume this is something someone stuffed in there for whatever? It certainly does not appear to be factory issue or something that really belongs there?I left it in place till reaching out to you all,hoping you can shed light on it for me.I do not see anything in there that in any way resembles a throwout bearing as TiredOil has posted in previous post.Do I need to remove more to see the bearing or am I in the wrong place all together? Lost but learning,Thank you all so much. I do have the "Owners Manual" and the "1931 Chevy Repair Manual" but find them to not really very helpful in this area.Thanks,Jay
See the previous post about removing the cover on the bottom of the fly wheel housing (under the back of the engine and front of the transmission) and looking up. The T.O, bearing is at the end of the clutch fork,
Ok,so I have the type with the oil cup on top.Looks to be in good condition from what I can tell. But,what do I know. Found that the lid on oil cup was left open and filled up with schmootz ! (dirt,fuzz,etc.) so I gently blew out with air. As for the oil that I will be putting in there---Regular motor oil? 3 in1 oil ? heavy weight oil? I think Mihaly picture says engine oil in notes below photo, so,unless I hear otherwise I will go with 30W motor oil. Thank you all one more time guys,Jay
Also, the 1932 operator’s manual for an Eagle states to use S.A.E. 160. The frequency just states “as necessary”whatever that means.
As another reference point the operator’s manual for my ‘37 states to use S.A.E. 160 in the summer and S.A.E. 90 in the winter. About 8 years and 5500 miles ago I filled mine with 85w-140 gear lube. I have no indications of problems. The manual states it is only necessary to re-oil it when a squeaking noise occurs when relapsing the clutch.
Well,I know mine was not oiled for at least 13 years so,I oiled it with Main Spring oil,a very high viscosity oil that stays put.It is a very high quality oil that is used by clock makers on main springs. It took exactly 6 drops to fill and has not moved!! Thanks guys .
