VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc no gas into carb.

Hi guys,so I had fuel tank cleaned,I replaced the fuel lines,new filter in glass bowl,fuel pump was rebuilt maybe 5 years ago with kit from FS. With key in off position,we started cranking the motor to get the fuel moving---bowl filled up in short order,fuel was coming out the line where it goes into the carb when loosened,so I am confident the pump is pumping BUT---no fuel seems to be going INTO the carb. I previously removed the brass nut on bottom of bowl,checked the little hole,it was free of any grunge,replaced it after I sprayed everything down with carb/choke cleaner,so after cranking for a while,removed the brass nut---no fuel in bowl ?? Can advise my next step in the quest ?? Thanks to all,Jay

Were it me I'd disconnect the line where it enters the carburetor completely and verify a steady stream of gas when you crank it over. If that checks OK, absent a physical plug of some kind it almost has to be a sticking needle valve. I'll be the first to admit I'm not an expert on carburetors so there may be something obvious I'm missing.

Thanks for that Tiny...JYD rebuilt it several years ago and it was running like a clock until I had to leave it in storage for a few years,so,could very well be needle valve----maybe time to take er off and go have a look around inside.

If the car was sitting for quite a while I expect you will just need to bite the bullet and rebuild the carb again. Whatever gasoline was sitting the carb probably evaporated and left a coating of varnish on everything. That varnish is what makes the needle valve stick as well as plugging the idle passages and main jet.

Several times, I have seen the float valve in the carburetor stick closed when the car has sat for a long, long time. The gas evaporates and the residue basically glues the needle to the seat. A couple of robust taps to the side of the carburetor with the handle of a screwdriver will usually free it up, or you can drop the bowl, remove the float and remove the needle, then reassemble.

Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip

Before you remove the carburetor, I'd remove the gas line at the carburetor, let your air compressor pressure right up, hold the air nozzle tightly to the gas inlet fitting on the carburetor and give it several sharp blast of air.
Re attach the gas line and see if it will start.

I've had it work for me! 🙂

I have had the no fuel in the carburetor a number of times. It is on the test engine that I check the '29-'31 carburetors that is run for minutes several times per month. Even though I use non-ethanol gasoline the unsaturates in today's fuel fairly quickly form gums and varnishes. It only takes a teensy bit to stick the needle to the seat. As Chip wrote a couple of raps with a screwdriver handle creates enough vibration to break the needle free. In case one might wonder 60 psi air blast is not enough to break the needle free but a encouragement with the screwdriver nearly always succeeds.

My compressor cuts out at 125 psi.
Maybe that's why it worked for me.

The gentlemen posting about the fuel (difficult to call it gasoline) leaving a sticky residue when evaporating on dead on target.

However poor modern fuel is in quality, it still is an excellent solvent.

Assuming the 49 in your handle means you have a 1949, that means a downdraft carburetor.

The Carter W-1, beginning in 1941, has a brass tube sticking up in the air intake, which is a bowl vent.

Before doing anything to the carburetor, fill the carburetor bowl using an oil can, or an empty mustard/ketchup squeeze bottle, until the bowl overflows (a few paper towels will soak up the overflow). LET THE ENGINE SIT FOR 24 HOURS.

Often, this will free the fuel valve.

AND DRAIN AND FLUSH THE FUEL TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All is costs you is time.

Jon.

Thank you for that info Carbking ...49 is actually my year of entry into this world !! my Chevy is 1931 AE Coach,sporting a RJH-08 Carter updraft. I do believe the solid tapping of the carb body with my small plastic non rebounding hammer knocked the needle valve loose and allowed the petrol to flow....I will know later today.Thanks again !!

There is an old cliche about the word "assume", and I violated the principle

Glad you got it going.

Jon

Well Fellas,I want to give a huge thank you to all of you that helped me thru this process !! THANK YOU !! I also want to thank my best pal Paul for his help to get er done !! After all the unknowns and challenges the old buggy fired up and runs like a charm !! Had to finally remove that carb and clean it out real good and get it back on,hoping we put it all back together properly---apparently we did !! After sitting for several years it is running,nothing leaking,sounds like sweet music ,no knocking no sputtering,no nothing !!!
I am far from done as I still need to check brakes,trans,clutch and electrical but,thanks to all of you it is running nicely !!!!

That's great news. Congratulations!

Many baby steps Chip as I am sure you know. Today I am going to open up the pumpkin and the trans box and see what critters await me in there. What fluids are recommended for these ? Gear lube like 600 weight maybe?? Thank you all again.

YES 600WT non hypoid to be safe :) for both

Thanks for confirming BearsFan315---Tell to me please what is hypoid or non hypoid ?

I googled the hypoid thing and got a bit of education,thanks for the heads up BearsFan315. Does anyone have a favorite non hypoid they recommend or are they pretty much all the same?