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I have a two-tone area where I will have to mask off the fresh paint, then shoot the new color above. Is there a special tape to use on new paint so that it doesn't damage the surface? Is there a really good tape that will give me a clean edge when I paint the second color? What is the application method I should use so that there is a smooth transition from one color to the next? What I mean is, I want the paint to look continuous but change color across a line, How can I tape two times across the same line and have the paint end up at the same thickness?

Brian

This is not an answer, But it is a good question, I would like to know this my self, other than masking the top and shooting the bottom, then waiting several days , applying tape to the fresh paint exactly against the old tape, then pull the tape off the primed top, and tapeing paper to the new tape 1/4 inch below the top of the tape, I don't know. My wife uses a blue masking tape in her crafts, that works good and doesn't pull cured paint off.
P&B guys let's hear your ideas!

Masking a recently painted area is not a problem if the paint has gone through the intitial cure and set. Read the directions on the can or contact the paint manufacturer for specific times. Remember that temperature and humidity will affect the cure time.

You MUST use a top quality tape such as 3M. That discount store stuff is good for the garbage. If you want to minimize the paint edge then pull the tape as soon as possible after spraying. It takes a steady hand and a bit of nerve but it will help the edge flow out.

I read the directions on PPG Delstar. It says "Allow the final coat to dry overnight before puting into service". That, my well read friends, does not answer the question of whether or not the adhesive on tape will damage the surface of fresh paint or should I wait a specific amount of time before applying tape or, more importantly, does not even come close to answering the original question, " I have a two-tone area where I will have to mask off the fresh paint, then shoot the new color above. Is there a special tape to use on new paint so that it doesn't damage the surface? Is there a really good tape that will give me a clean edge when I paint the second color? What is the application method I should use so that there is a smooth transition from one color to the next? What I mean is, I want the paint to look continuous but change color across a line, How can I tape two times across the same line and have the paint end up at the same thickness?"

So, assuming that I can follow the rest of the directions on how to prepare the surface, mix the paint, set the proper settings on the paint, and time the coats, how do you make a perfectly flat transition between two different colors of paint, shot at two different times.

One idea I did have is that I will over spray one color. Run a wide piece of tape over the transition line, then use a straight edge and exacto knife to cut a transition line. Then peel the tape away from the to be painted side and carefully sand along the tape edge, clean the area and shot the second color.

Brian

Some years ago when I restored "A" coupe manufactured by "A" company that shall remain nameless...ahem...I just painted the whole body the main color, then masked it off exposing only the trim areas and sprayed a coat or two of the contrasting color. To avoid pulling new paint off with masking tape, I probably waited a week or two before the second color. Also, I was told to first press your making tape to your pantleg before applying it. That will reduce the stickiness a bit, but not so much that you'll loose necessary adhesion. Finally, at that time I was spraying nitrocellulose lacquer which required color sanding and rubbing. These operations removed any "ledge" between the two colors and I did, indeed, have a finish that seemed to just change colors across a line. Today, if you are going to use the more modern technique of color coat/clear coat, you will also be able to smooth the "ridge" during the final color sanding. The final surface will be glass smooth after the clear coat has been applied on top.

All paint suppliers have a spec sheet that tells the dry to tape and time till you buff. single stage paints are harder to two tone without a tape line. but the easy way is to break the color at a molding or at a body line.
Paint your first (main) color and allow to dry to the tape time,
Get The best fine line masking tape you can ( I like 1/4 in 3m) it looks like plastic pinstripe tape and it won't bleed. the fine line tape will give you a clean break line, and tape off for your second color.
You can use regular masking tape over the fine line with your paper to mask the already painted surface.
Paint your second color and as soon as it is dry to touch on the paper remove the paper and tape. pull the fine line tape over the new paint at a sharp angle and that will help keep from lifting the 2nd color. Then allow plenty of dry time
get a good sanding block and 2000 wet dry sandpaper put plenty of water on the line and SLOWLY sand WITH the line and smooth the ridge. buff and polish and it will look great. take your time you dont want to break thru to the other color if you do it will ruin your day and make you say a bad word!

AN IMPORTANT SAFTEY NOTE!!

All of the new paints have some realy bad chemicals in them and if you breathe them in

THEYCAN KILL YOU

Use a good respirator. a dust mask will not protect you.

Hi Brian,

Please use the 3M green tape. Before you apply it to the paint - run your finger across it - to knock down the adhesive.

If you use regular masking tape - it WILL lift the paint.

Also, if the edge concerns you - pick up some blue tape. This material is plastic (rather than paper based). It will provide a razor sharp edge with no bleed through.

Make sure your masking paper is up to the task. Today's paint chemicals can bleed right through the paper - causing terrible problems on the "other color"

Good luck with the project!

I use nothing but the blue vinyl tape and I get perfect results every time! It works great!

So I just sand the line to smooth. I think I can do that. Now this blue tape. Where do I get this, at the same shop where I buy the paint or is this something that is sold everywhere? Is it a type of tape that many manufacturers make or is it from one single manufacturer? Is there anything special about the adhesive on the tape?

Thanks for the ideas, I feel a little better about the whole project now.

Brian

The blue vinyl tape is sold at your local auto paint dealer, and it comes in several widths since it is also used for the lay out for pin striping if you are going to spray the stripe with a spray gun. When I pull the tape off, I get a good clean crip line whereas with the masking tape the line wasn't as crisp and clean. Also, it is not as sticky as masking tape and you can put it on and pull it off several times until you get the line that you want. It also bends around curves and you will get a nice radius with this tape if you use the thinner size. I used masking tape for many years, but after the blue vinyl tape was recommend to me, and I tried it, I will never go back to the masking tape. Also, I believe that this type is made by 3M. Man, this stuff is really :cool2:

Thanks guys! I'll drop by the store today and pick up some"blue" tape. I'm still thinking about how to shot the bottom then top colors so that the transition line is as flat as if it was one color. I believe trying to tape the same line twice, once on top and then on the bottom, could be real frustrating. Plus there is no way to know if you hit the line correctly the second time until you pull the tape off after the second color has been applied. At that point there is nothing you can do to fix the problem if your off just a hair. That level of uncertainty makes me nervous.

Brian

A guy I talked to said to tape the division line with the tape on the primer before spraying either color, with the tape on the part being sprayed last, mask the part you want to paint last for 12 inches up, spray the 1st color ( and the clear,), and , then after the first color is dry, use the blue tape to mask the new color with the first tape exactly aginist the edge of the original tape (no overlap!) and completely mask the new paint job ( and clear coat if Color/clear) , so no overspray will get on it Then remove the old tape, and spray the second color , and clear coat, Remove the masking as soon as the spraying is done and is almost dry. then use a small block with 600 or 1500 grit if necessary to even up the line, then spray the final coat of clear coat if needed. He says that the line will be the same thickness on both sides.

I usually only mask once. With the entire area in primer, I paint one color first, and overlapping onto the second color area with the first color. When dry, I then put on the blue tape where I want the second color to start, and then I cover the first color with masking paper to protect it from overspray. I then paint the second color. When dry, I remove the blue tape and the masking paper and it's done! If I want to clear, I then clear the whole thing and that eliminates any ridge where the two colors join. :cool2:

Does anybody sell that tape that they put on new cars to protect the finish? You know, the big white sheets of vinyl like material that is on the hoods and roof of a new car?

The Blue tape is expensive! I was expecting it to be about the price of electrical tape. Well if it works I suppose it would be worth it.

I believe I will try the overlap method but I still think there must be a way to get the paint to lay flat across the seam. I'm still thinking on it....

Brian

If you are using a 2 stage base coat and a clear two tone us not hard :cool2: . It is important not to apply the paint to heavy or you may get a blister or bubble effect from the solvents .I still ceccomend the blue pinstripe tape for a clean line . I use 2 or 3 coats of color and sand if needed and 2 or 3 coats of clear and the line will disapear . The 2 stage paint system will make a bad painter look good Because of the short time you have to wait to sand out mistakes. It isimportant to use one company's
prouduct from primer to clear or you will run into compatibility problems and with the cost of materials these days you don't want to screw up. also be sure to follow mixing instructions exactly or things will go wrong

Brian, Tom32 has some very good advice. :)

The only thing I would add would be for you to find a very good paint and body shop and make some new friends. Most of these guys love to talk about their work, take a notebook and take some notes, see what they use for tape, masking, etc. The only problem is finding a good painter, check with some of the local old car clubs. The street rod (ouch) people will know some quality painters, sometimes they have more in a paint job then what the total car is worth. :(

An idea that I have not read here and I know a lot of painters down under use.
Find a piece of old panel about 12" square and do a practice run before you try on the car. With my unsteady hand I prefer to do lower colour to a unmasked line well above the line let it dry, rub it back to smooth down to the masked line then paint above. When that is dry then rub the lot back.
Of course it is much easier if you use a line in the body to mask to or if there is a chrome moulding to hide the actual line when all is finished