This is general advice for any normal car with normal suspension that is the same on both sides, and a steering box (not a rack). It is not specifically for your 1956, but maybe it will help.
It also assumes nothing is bent. If something is bent, that must be fixed first.
The tie rods must be exactly the same length overall. Any toe adjustment would have to be made on BOTH side equally, assuming the steering wheel is straight ahead.
The length overall of the tie rods is also critical. They are designed so that as the suspension goes up and down, the car does not steer. The phenomenon when it does steer is called "bump steer" and is extremely undesirable. The position and length of the tie rods is critical. The ride height of the car also matters, so if it had been lowered, or the suspension has been modified in some way, all bets are off.
Usually on a car with a steering box, the steering box has a "tight spot" in the center, and the steering wheel may be indexed somehow, possibly with a master spline or a key or a mark This is so the tight spot occurs at straight ahead with the steering wheel right side up.
Assuming everything is assembled correctly, and the steering wheel is straight up at the designed in tight spot, when the toe is adjusted to the correct amount, and the steering wheel is straight going down the road, the length of the tie rods should be exactly the same by default. It should just turn out that way. If that is not happening, I would be looking for something assembled wrong, like the steering wheel off by a half or full turn when straight ahead, or bent suspension parts.
By contrast, on a rack and pinion system, which is much more common today, the tie rods are measured to be the same length at the beginning. Toe is adjusted equally on both sides until correct, keeping the tie rod lengths equal. If the steering wheel is not straight it is pulled off of it's splines and made straight as the last step. This is exactly backwards when compared to a car with a steering box. Hope this helps.
P.S. I would expect on that car that the tie rods on any sleeve have opposite threads, and that adjustment would be made by turning the whole sleeve, and that the inner and outer should run out of thread at the same time. Am I missing something here?