VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Fuel filter recommendations

I am adding an inline fuel filter to my 1946 216 with mechanical fuel pump and Carter W1 carb.
Any recommendations on the “Micron rating” of the actual filter element?. I do not want to restrict gas flow to the card, nor cause excessive work for the fuel pump.
Randy

I am very satisfied with the results using a Fram G2 filter in the outlet line from the fuel tank. I don’t know the micron rating but I have no issues with unwanted materIal getting through to the fuel pump and carburetor.

The only time I have issues with fuel delivery is when the filter is almost plugged. Which means it is doing its job! The original fuel tank in my ”˜37 continues to shed very fine rust particles.

Do you also have a filter inline between the fuel pump and the carb?
Randy

I have an AC filter I will sell (with a new element). $40.00.

Hi Randy,

Happy Thanksgiving! Hope you have not had too much turkey before you read this too long an answer. You might fall asleep.

I only have the one filter between the tank outlet and the fuel pump. My thinking is that with a filter in that location both the fuel pump and carburetor are protected. So a second filter between the fuel pump and the carb seems redundant. It is just another place for a leak to develop.

I also do not want the extra resistance to flow that a second filter would add. These fuel pumps are low pressure (less than 5 psi) and very low flow per stroke.

There are some people who recommend that you do not put the filter before the pump. They are concerned that because the fuel pump has such low suction capability the resistance the flow on the inlet side will not let fuel get to the pump and engine.

That has not been my experience. Plus I really like the fact that I am protecting the fuel pump as well as the carburetor.

I really like the Fram G2. It is a clear plastic filter so you can easily see how full it is. It comes with 2 short pieces of hose and 4 spring type clamps. I prefer spring clamps on fuel hose because they do not cut into the rubber like a gear clamp. Plus they keep the connections tight under constant pressure. It is easy to quickly replace with just a pair of regular pliers. I do have a fuel shut-off valve in the line between the tank outlet and the filter. That makes changing it very easy with minimal mess.

The G2 fits a 5/16” fuel line. The G1 is for 1/4” and the G3 is for 3/8”.I buy a couple at a time because the last time I bought them they were less than $5. My guess is that post-pandemic for whatever reason they are $6.

I have been using an inline filter between the tank and fuel pump for 20 years. It is a clear reusable one . I purchased it locally and don't have a part number but you can check this site :
https://www.speedwaymotors.com Search fuel filters and view one by Mr Gasket 9747

Rusty,
HAPPY THANKSGIVING toy you and your family as well. In spite of all the issues we face every day, we still have MUCH to be thankful for!

I enjoy reading your comments. I agree with everything you said.

I am really trying to keep my 46 Chevrolet truck as original as possible. I don’t really enjoy doing modifications, especially cutting into hard fuel lines that are working well. Even though my fuel pump is the type with the self contained filter with glass bowl, it seems to get only the larger debris, if any. The filter screen is cleaned regularly. I have smaller stuff making it’s way to my Carter W1 carb, causing issues there. I am currently only my second rebuild due to a clog in the fuel bowl.

My tank (which has some age on it) is going to be completely replaced this time with the carb issue being addressed. The tank has the fuel petcock and hard line to just before the fuel pump. There is a very short piece of rubber hose connecting it to the fuel pump, allowing for any vibration between the motor and frame.

To add your fuel filter, did you cut into the hard line? Can you describe?

Thanks,
Randy

Thank you for your offer, but I too have one already. Good luck getting it to someone who can use one.
Randy

Thank you for your comments. I have done some research on that particular one as well.
Randy

Hi Randy,

In your truck you might consider putting the filter closer to the fuel pump in the area where you already have a rubber hose. You probably only have to shorten the steel line slightly to make room for the filter. The location in that line does not change the overall resistance to flow between the tank and pump.

I installed the G2 because I was having the same issue with the fine particles making it through the pump and to the bowl in the carburetor. My car does have a YF but it does not like that crud any more that a W1 does.

I installed mine near the tank outlet because it is not visible in that location. I had to replace my fuel line due to age and rusting. So cutting into it did not concern me. On a very relevant note I helped a friend get his ”˜49 3100 back on the road. We installed the same set-up of shut-off valve and filter as in my car on his truck. It fit nicely between the tank outlet and the right frame rail

I also like to keep my car looking fairly original but I am very willing to make small changes to improve reliability. I am still using it as my around town daily driver this season. We have not had any snow and the temperatures are still in the 40’s and 50’s during the day. Even at night when it is in the 30’s the heater keeps it comfortable.

Rusty,
With your setup, any concerns of the plastic filter housing being compromised or even cracked from road stuff? If I understand correctly, it is not protected fully in that area.

Hi Randy,

On both vehicles the filter is well above the bottom of the frame well and inboard at least 6 inches. It is well inboard of the tires. I had a similar concern until I realized that the chance of an object hitting the filter is almost the same as an object hitting the fuel line or the bottom side of the floor on the passenger side.

I do drive occasionally on gravel roads.