VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 28 engine removal

Ready to pull the engine for my restoration, since I’m going to completely disassemble the car, is there any reason I can’t leave the tranny hooked up when I pull the motor??

Hello Dave

it would be nice to pull it with engine two people helps it hits the firewall hits the steering it best to remove it first and when you restore it the motor first then the trans i learned the hard way by my self i know it can be done it would have to be at a good tilt to put it back i did not want to chance it after every thing is panted if the crossmember could come off the trans. it would easy to pull i hope this helps good luck

I have removed and replaced 1928 engine/transmission together numerous times by my self. In my opinion it is the only smart way to go. The key is to position the lift point between # 3 and #4 cylinders. That gives an approximate balance to the assembly. Having the strap or chain be able to swivel or twist permits working around the steering column. There is no need to remove the U-joint or ball housing that connects to the torque tube. It will slide out and also back in. I use a corrugated board or blanket to protect the firewall paint. It is necessary to remove the shift tower, speedometer cable, bolts and shims from the side mounts, wires, cables, tubing, etc. Of course the headlights on the bar, radiator, hood, etc. I have done all of that by my self.

There are a few critical steps. One is taking off the hood. If you position yourself as close to the radiator as you can, each side can be lifted and a pad or foam put between the front of the hood to hold it open enough to allow putting each arm under the top sides and lifting up and forward it comes off without scratching anything. Of course it can also be done with an assistant reaching over the fenders and pulling back on the top of the sides and walking it forward.

The engine, transmission, clutch, u-joint can all be prepared and assembled. When put back in just need to reverse the process and slide the transmission ball housing onto the torque tube. It may be necessary to adjust the transmission output shaft to align the splines so it slips in but it is easy with the top of the transmission open.

Helpful information.

Excellent, Thanks for the info!

On my 28 I have never had any luck clearing the rear engine cross member and the top of the cowl opening even with the flywheel inspection cover removed. Perhaps differences in body styles. I always drop the transmission and flywheel first. I have considered making the rear cross member removable.

I would agree with that , I have a 28 Sedan Fisher body and cowl and you can not remove the whole drive chain, you need to remove the great box first, the bell housing just won't fit through the hole, Tourer bodies seem to be a little different. My assumption is the drive chain was installed first then the body put on over the top. Apart from that, if you take the gear box out first , you don't need to remove the pedals, brake lever etc as these most definitely won't get through the firewall hole, May also be that Im working on Right hand drive cars with pedals etc on opposite side to US cars, Ray

Yep, your correct, won’t clear the cross member
Thanks!

I wouldn’t pull an engine without my load leveller. It is so handy to change the tilt on the fly.

I found it was simpler just to remove the radiator housing and give you room to glide it right in. Why fight it