VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 1946 Chevy truck turn signals

I am in the process of adding turn signals to my stock 6 volt 1/2 ton pickup. Using a GUIDE 6002, 7 wire switch and using both the rear brake lights and front parking lights as indicators, I would like some feedback regarding these two questions…

1. If I decide to convert parking light lamps to dual filament bulbs, what is the easiest way to access/change the bulb holders and wiring?
2. Relating to question #1, where is a good source for the new bulb pigtails and dual filament 6 volt bulbs (including bulb number) that will fit into the parking lamp assembly when all buttoned up?

If I decide to leave the parking lights AS IS and use them as turn signal lights, is there a brighter bulb that can be used (current bulb is #55)?

Randy

I would try to use the same bulbs as you would use for the tail lights. If the globe is too big, then 6v dual filament bulbs exist for motorcycle applications that are a much smaller globe, more like a 63. Here is an example. I know nothing about the company I linked. The bulbs are probably also available on Ebay if you look around. I think these bulbs are European, so there may not be a normal American number.

https://www.2fastmoto.com/2FastMoto-6-Volt-20W-5W-Dual-Filament-Bulb_p_1060.html


A 55 is a tiny 9mm ba9s socket. Bright halogen bulbs exist on that base, 21 watts if I remember correctly, They are clear if you get them in the US. I was just looking around and I see they are out of stock everywhere. You can still get 10W. Amber ones come only from eastern Europe. I bought some a couple years ago out of Slovakia. I see those are out of stock too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152815822883

Maybe try some LEDs?

Switch is wired, with new rear lines for each light. Tested. All functions are working well. Before I finalize wiring connections under the dash, I am considering getting battery power for the fused turn signal connection from the ignition switch. Opinions?

The main limitation is that the ignition switch on these older vehicles cannot handle a lot of current. If the turn signals are the only accessory wired through the switch there should be no concerns.

On the other hand if you have the heater fan or a radio or even the cigar lighter wired through the ignition that could be more than the contacts can handle. In that case you could install a relay so the only extra current through the contacts is the small load for the coil in the relay.

Other options?

I agree with Rusty 37 Master. You'd probably be ok with just signals connected to the ignition, but I would bite the bullet and just put a relay in. The ignition switches in those days weren't designed for much current. That's why so many accessories on old cars are always wired hot when it seems obvious to switch them.

The ignition switch currently has the stock radio and stock Harrison heater…both on fused lines, connected to the ignition switch (switched side).

Outside of using the ignition switch, the next easiest access point is the AMMETER. Does it make a difference which of the rear ammeter terminals is used, since both are HOT?

Any current used on the battery side will register as "charge", so my gut says use the regulator side for less "kicking" while the system is actually charging. It's going to kick part of the time no matter what you do. Before making a final decision I would look at a wiring diagram to see what Chevrolet did when they finally added turn signals. I think that was probably 1951, and in passenger cars.

Rusty,
This will be my first experience with adding relays.
1. Does each accessory (heater fan, radio, etc) require a separate relay to run off the switched side of the ignition switch?
2. Since truck is still 6 volts, at my request…can you recommend a source/mfg/type of relay to use? I am only seeing 12v ones online.
Randy

Bloo,
Please feel free to chime in on my question directed to Rusty, as well. I would like your opinion.
Randy

I don't know what to get, as I haven't done this for several years. If modern 6v relays aren't readily available, then you are probably looking for a Delco headlight relay from the period. If it were me, I might get a heavy duty one and put the radio and heater on it too.

I found lots of solutions through a simple Google search “6 volt relay”. VW Beetles used Bosch 6 volt relays. Contact a Beetle supply house.

Try this one.
Newark 6 VDC Relay

You only need one relay it can handle 30 amps. You can put the heater, radio, and turn signals on it. Feed the power side from the battery side of the ammeter. Connect the power side of the coil to the ignition switch. Leave the ignition on the switch. That way if the relay fails the car will still run.

I agree with all of that except the side of the ammeter. Any loads you put on the battery side will register as "charge" when the system is charging and you wont be able to believe your ammeter anymore. I think you should use the regulator side for the power feed. The accessories wont care one way or the other.

I used a relay, triggered from the ignition switch to power a bus bar, fed by the ammeter and mounted on the inside of the firewall with takeoffs for heater, radio, and turn signals.

Thank you for your reply. That is exactly what I ended up doing as well.