VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 '37 Horn Button on Banjo Steering Wheel

1937 with Banjo Steering Wheel
During the restoration a new horn button pad and new bushing with wire were installed for the Banjo Steering Wheel.
With the pad installed I am unable to make good contact for the horn to honk -- with the pad removed contact is made and the horn makes it noise.
Do I possibly have the bushing installed too far into the column?
Thanks in advance for your help ....

Does that rely on the S wire setup?

On my 38, the vertical separation between the activating wire and the brass disc in the bushing is critical. This can be adjusted be loosening the bottom clamp on the steering shaft housing tube, and moving it up or down.

I expect that your thinking is correct. I always measure the depth of the bushing before I remove it for replacement.

There should be a dimple in the steering column that prevents or at least makes it difficult to push the busing too deep.

My observation is this in some situations the dimple does not prevent setting the bushing too deep for the horn button to work properly.

As Old216 said, the distance to the bushing is critical. For my the banjo steering wheel horn on my 1937 Master Deluxe I have the steering column tube about 3/8 inch above the fully seated position on the steering box. I've not changed the contact bushing and believe it is an original part. The horn works fine and there is still good clearance between the tube and the steering wheel. Tom

I'm assuming from the above replies that the banjo steering wheel uses the S wire setup. The depth isn't the only critical issue. The S wire making contact with the bushing contact at the same time it's contacting the side of one of the holes through the steering wheel can be problematic. There was an aftermarket fix that consisted of a small rectangular plate with a spring. The rectangular plate had small tabs that wrapped around the S wire and the spring rode on the end of the steering mast. This ensured the S wire always made contact with ground when it was in contact with the bushing. I don't seem to have a photo of one and can't get to the garage to take a picture. When I get mobile again I'll try to remember to take a photo and post it.

thanks to all for the replies and good info .....
I will make the column adjustment at the gear box
I'm confident that the replacement bushing is very close to the same depth as the original.
Tiny .... I would like to see a photo(s) of this 'S' wire ....
I'll update when I have had the chance to make the column adjustment.
rgds ....

I did a search of ebay and by chance there's a seller with some listed. This is the piece that connects to your S wire. Wrap the tabs around your S wire so that the spring rides on the end of the steering mast/nut.

By Golly .... adjusting the column ever so slightly was the magic adjustment ....
I'm not sure if I need the 'S' wire ... I might order one to have as a just in case.
Thanks again for the suggestions and help
best regards to all ....

I'm going to revive this thread because it's relevant. I have a 38 MD Business Coupe. I'm trying to replace the horn bushing. How the heck do I remove the old one? Currently, the steering wheel is off and the old bushing is exposed. Do I need to remove the column from the steering box (as mentioned above in the 'adjustment') and slide the column up far enough for the bushing to come off the shaft where I can simply grab the bushing and remove it?

Thank you in advance!

I replaced my bushing while the steering box was scattered all over the work bench so it was an easy process. To do it in the car you would need to loosen the column cover and lift it about 6 or 7" to get a log jawed puller to grip the old bush but would be achievable.
Tony