Not sure why this is such an impossible request but I’ll try this again. I need a complete 1931 ignition switch that has a key. Who has one they will never use? Thanks in advance.
The main reason that finding a functioning electrolock is their construction materials. The two internal cylinders are die-cast with high zinc metal alloy. Moisture and heat cause the alloy to corrode and therefore expand. That freezes the parts together and renders the lock unusable. I have found a person that thinks replacement parts can be 3D printed. If that is the case frozen parts might be replaced making more functional electrolocks possible. I have been told that due to Covid restrictions and winter weather it probably will take a while to find out for sure. Stay tuned.
Well I got some parts and now I have to complete electrolock ignition swithes and one is my original switch which makes me very happy to use my original keys. Thanks to all who took time to reply.
Keep an eye open at the swap meets. Last year I found one in good condition with no key, still need to figure out how to get it apart. I also found the key end of an electrock 2 years ago at Hershey. Jest need to look hard, they are out there
A good locksmith can easily unlock a functioning lock. It only takes a short time with lock picks. Never allow anyone to use a drill on an electrolock!! If they can't quickly pick it, take it somewhere else. Once open removing the cylinder to reveal the key code number allows a new key to be made. However if the lock cylinder is frozen the lock it toast. I have a bunch of toasted electrolocks.
My 31 Chevy's electrolock was replaced in 2006 by one purchased from Oldcarz (Frank Sciarello). It operated well but now the cylinder is stuck in the running position. It will push in and it will cut off, but it won't stay in. I suspect a replacement (locally cut key) caused the jam. The key won't come out. Apparently Oldcarz is out of business because my contacts have failed. I purchased the instructions for rebuilding an electrolock from the Filling Station. However, the first thing it says to do is put a paperclip in the small hole below the key. My aftermarket electrolock has no hole. Does anyone have a suggestion? John
John, If the cylinder is frozen in the unlocked position the key should not come out. In the unlocked position the key and intermediate cylinders can be removed by taking off the attaching ring and pushing down on the brass "button" on the top side. Using the key to jiggle the two mating cylinders so they can be removed. Be careful as there are a couple more parts that can come out as well. Jarvis and I are probably the best to try to save the lock. Don't delay as as time goes on so does the part expansion that freezes to two cylinders together.
The instructions sold by the www.fillingstation.compare for 1937-1939 electrocks, which have the hole to insert a paper clip into , allows the lock barrel to turn to a position which allows the key barrel to be removed. The 1931 electrolock is different as chipper has stated,.
I also have a question about the 1931 electrolock. I have a problem of a different sort on the 1931 special sedan I recently bought. The pop out part in the dash works fine. The other end is not connected to the distributor. There is just the threaded post sticking out of the armored cable. What am I missing to properly connect it? Is there a parts diagram that I can reference? There are many hastily assembled things I am discovering that I want to put back correct...Like the bracket to hold the spark cable to the block is missing, So it is not working. Also missing the spark plug wire guides. and the bracket to hold the throttle and choke cables to the carb. They are clamped to the air filter.....Not complaining, I will enjoy making it right. Runs great.
